My new offroad insane powered barstool

[elvergon]

this is the chassis ive done and you can see the pics here. Its a 125 cc engine 4 stroke with 15-18 horsepower, ill beusing an industrial sprocket allowing an aproximated acceleration of 0-100 kmph in 7-8 segs, and a top speed of 120...i hope i wont be going that fast :s... im using a disc brake from a old motorcycle, im using a real axle which is 3/4" im using 2 industrial bearings....the wheels are 20" with a 9" rim from a 4wheeler...i needed tobuy a 24mm grade 8 bolt so it can fitonthe hub and ill need to weld thehub to the axle. Everything is oxy acet welded, and with a wood circular saw with a carbide blade and a grinder they are my arsenal of tools. The tubes I think that are 7/8". Im hoping that i can make a frontsuspension using A arms that appear on thepics. Itll be a mounstrous barstool ( due to the size of the tires) and hope it would work on offroad too here you can see the pics. Any advice on the welding would be cool too, you can see a pic of it here too. Cya guys

[Mike Bean]

Hey Elvergon,

The description sounds pretty cool and I am curious to see your BSR, however it appears you may have forgotten to upload a photo. :eek:

-mbean

[elvergon]

yeah sorry bro, my pics are 800-900 KB im trying to make them smaller :S but if it doesnt work you can download them from here...http://bbssystem.com/viewtopic.php?t=335

[Mike Bean]

Elvergon,

Email me your photos and I will resize them and add them into your post. Please send the photos to support@barflyracers.com

-mbean

yeah sorry bro, my pics are 800-900 KB im trying to make them smaller :S but if it doesnt work you can download them from here...http://bbssystem.com/viewtopic.php?t=335

[elvergon]

here are the pics ;)

[elvergon]

thank mbean i did it, sorry didnt want to bother you, what i would like is for them to appear on the message, not for downloading, could that be possible? i forgot the engine is 5 speed :D lol

here are some more...

[elvergon]

here there are 2 more

[Mike Bean]

If you upload more than 1 photo per page, it makes them a clickable link.

Now if you use the insert image option, you can specify an html url and the photos will all show.

Good to see you got it figured out!

Hey when do you think you will have it finished?

-mbean
thank mbean i did it, sorry didnt want to bother you, what i would like is for them to appear on the message, not for downloading, could that be possible? i forgot the engine is 5 speed :D lol


here are some more...

[elvergon]

i dont know, i need to find the sprocked that should fit a 3/4" tube i dont think that it should be that much work. The other problem i have is that i also need a hub or something to hold the braking disc. Last and more important problem is i ran out of acetylene!!!!!!! =(!!!!! ill be refilling it on friday so i can work on it saturday and sunday. I got one question...do you think 3 mm thick tube can do the steering? i meannn where you can weld the screw where the wheel goes and i got another question too...is 5 mm steel plate good for doing the squared "U" stuff where the direction assembly goes? (i dunno how it is called but the piece of the direction that i told ya goes there)....also i might be going to the flea market to look for the front shocks. I guess this is the first barstool with shocks, is there a reason why people dont put shocks on BSR? or is just useless extra work or something like that?

[Mike Bean]

I have not brushed up on the metric system in a long time so the thickness of the metals you are using I cannot put to what I use without making a educated guess.

However, I can give you specs on what I used for frame and steering.

For the frame I used 1X1X1/8" square tubing. And for the steering spindle mounts and motor mounts I used pre-made parts that where were fabed from 1/4" mild steel.

I hope that helped you out. I was not exactly sure from your post which parts you were exactly speaking about.. sorry...

[elvergon]

here is what im talking about, is it ok to use this tubes/plates?

The steering tube that i show( dunno how it is called) is 7/8" and the walls are 3mm thick. ( 3/25.4 = .11")

The plate that i will use to fab the kinda horizontal U that holds that tube im thinking of using 5mm thick plate. ( 5/25.4= .19")

The last part of it is the screw which is a 1/2" screw.

Is everything fine? (remembering ill have 15-18 hp, 5 speed, and lots of velocity and acceleration)

thanks for all the help!

[elvergon]

I guess this is the first barstool with shocks, is there a reason why people dont put shocks on BSR? or is just useless extra work or something like that?

[Mike Bean]

Elvergon,

Ok, I did some metric conversions for you.

The U shape part is usually called a spindle bracket and I would recommend using 6.5mm for that part.

The part that looks like an arm you will be hooking your tie rod to I would recommend atleast 3.5mm.

And the 7/8 tube I would say atleast 3.5mm wall (thick) for that.

I am not sure of your location, but all of these parts that you are trying to make, I can get you already done for about $35.00 US.

-mbean

[Mike Bean]

I guess it really depends on what you're going to do with it. I think most people use them for gokart type of toys or pit vehicles. Since the normal style of a BSR is low to the ground, they would not work well for off roading even if they had shocks. And with the high center of gravity you would most likely flip while off roading.

If you are looking for some simple shocks just to take some of the vibration out, there are spindle brackets that have a spring built into them that you can get.

-mbean
I guess this is the first barstool with shocks, is there a reason why people dont put shocks on BSR? or is just useless extra work or something like that?

[monkey-1]

I have a friend of mine (LOU from OUTLAW RACING (http://www.outlawracing.net/)) thats toying around with some new ideas. Here are some pics of something he was toying around with the other day:
http://www.outlawracing.net/forums/pulling1.jpg
http://www.outlawracing.net/forums/pulling2.jpg
He calls it a pulling stool, but this is just something he was toying with. I dont want to give too much away, but check out his site for updates.


Here is also another BSR he ran across that was built using the frame from a small 4 wheeler:
http://www.outlawracing.net/images/wf/wf11.jpg

[elvergon]

hey mbean yah i only want to reduce some vibrations on the BSR thanks for the help on the spindle brakets and the other tube, lol mmm i think thats a good price for em,but can you send em to Mexico?? its near the US I live on Nuevo Leon, the cp is 66250 can you like calculate how much it will take them to arrive?? $$ thanks bean, and thanks too monkey actually i m tryin to do something like the 2nd BSR that u said he made using an ATV chassis. Do you have more pics? what engine did he used? what do you think on putting some shocks on it''

[Mike Bean]

Elvergon,

I will get you a cost on shipping for the parts. They will save you a bunch of time.

-mbean


hey mbean yah i only want to reduce some vibrations on the BSR thanks for the help on the spindle brakets and the other tube, lol mmm i think thats a good price for em,but can you send em to Mexico?? its near the US I live on Nuevo Leon, the cp is 66250 can you like calculate how much it will take them to arrive?? $$ thanks bean, and thanks too monkey actually i m tryin to do something like the 2nd BSR that u said he made using an ATV chassis. Do you have more pics? what engine did he used? what do you think on putting some shocks on it''

[Mike Bean]

Hey the green pulling stool looks like it would be uncomfortable to ride. I would add some tires with the same height in the front.

-mbean

[elvergon]

waiting for that cost to arriveee lol :D i hope that aint too much becouse ill need to work for the $$$ and i need to refill acetylene and buy the rear sprocket, the shocks, and the hub for the brake disc too

[elvergon]

i founded a 6mm thick plate, probably i can make the spindle brackets with it...ill guess thatll be my work for saturday morning and sunday lol

[monkey-1]

Hey the green pulling stool looks like it would be uncomfortable to ride. I would add some tires with the same height in the front.

-mbean

Yeah, he was just goofing around and took some pics. Hes not going to build one. You would just have to know Lou, hes a goober, but he can build some nice stuff. I taught him everything he knows!

[elvergon]

thats cool bro, btw i also admire your products they are cool. On the other hand the stool which had ATV tires will be like mine, do you have anymore pics of it or something like dat? did he put suspension on his BSR?

did you get the cost mbean??

[elvergon]

heys guysss i wanna get this the first time, is it really to turn on a live axle? is it better to power only 1 wheel? which is the best recomendation? where can i find a diferential for 18 hp? which of all these do you recomend??

[elvergon]

sorry meant really dificult

[Mike Bean]

If you are going to be running 18HP, I would use a live axle. That's a lot of power for once wheel.

I only have a 6.5 HP and I use a live axle. No big deal really. When I want to turn sharp I kick it up on the two side wheels and turn on a dime. When I want to ride a wheelie I hit the gas and the front is up.

-mbean


heys guysss i wanna get this the first time, is it really to turn on a live axle? is it better to power only 1 wheel? which is the best recomendation? where can i find a diferential for 18 hp? which of all these do you recomend??

[elvergon]

here is the pics for what i ve done today
this is where the 2 splindle brakets will comefrom

[elvergon]

this is the barstool with the tube that will hold the steering, illbe using a 1" tube and the steering is 3/4" cold rolled steel and it fits almost perfectly so it isnt very tight not very loose, its just perfect. You can also see the A" arm that is aldready welded but not to the chassis

[elvergon]

the aldready welded A arm, even thought its not welded to the frame

[elvergon]

here you can see the 1" steering tube welded to the frame.

[elvergon]

this is the cold rolled steel steering tube. Its 3/4 and will also be used for the live axle. The plate that is welded to it, will go on one end of the holding tube and it wont let it fall, itll suport it. I still have to cut the tube for having the 2 parts the steering and the axle

[elvergon]

the steering assembly. i still need the plate where the tie rods will go.

[Mike Bean]

It looks like things are coming together for you. I have one question...Are you building this BSR in your house or just taking photos inside? :tongue:

-mbean

[elvergon]

lol
llol lol im taking the photos inside, i take my BSR inside couse today it was going to rain so it stopped my progress and i dont wANT my BSR to get oxidized. What do you think? is it lookign good??

[Mike Bean]

lol
llol lol im taking the photos inside, i take my BSR inside couse today it was going to rain so it stopped my progress and i dont wANT my BSR to get oxidized. What do you think? is it lookign good??
Elvergon,

Your design is different from what I have seen before. It looks like you are on the right track. I am very curious to see the finished project. You will have to take some mpeg videos and photos and send them in.

When do you think you will have it finished?

-mbean

[elvergon]

can anyone post pics of the tie rods and how are they made? i would also like to look at the steering bars. Is it ok if i used a screw for tie rods? im thinkin of using the 7/8 tubes also for steering, i would not like my steering system to brake at 60 mph :S lol, any suggestions mike?? thanks bro :D

[elvergon]

yeah be sure that i will take a lot of pics and videos of it. In fact this is my 1st barstool and im also very excited. Im also excited cause itlll have a front suspension system and to date i havent see one with suspension. I think that 2 more weeks ( at the longest) will allow me too finish. Its long becouse im a student and just moved to professional, so im having to put a lot effort on the school. I still need to get the shocks, after that, ill need the thing that will hold the disc to the axle and i dont know where to look for this. I think that ive found a place where i could get the sprocket. Depending on what you say about the tie rods i still need to figure a way that can let the tie rods to move vertically and not loose themselves becouse of the travel of the suspension. If you tell me that the 7/8 tube with a 1/2 screw will hold i could probably finish the steering today. Oh and btw I DONT HAVE A bARSTOOL!!!!!!!!!!! lol do you think i could find one on home depot? ohhh btw $$$ is also important since im a student ill try to finish as soon as possible and i will keep you guys informed.

[elvergon]

BTW thank you very much for all the guys helping me out in here, specially u mbean. I have another question for you bro. I still need to buy the 2 front wheels. They are expensive (140.0$) for both including the hubs. However since these will be the wheels that should be loose can you help me out to figure a way in which i could make the wheels be loose? i mean the hub hole is .90" will the very used way of having like a .89" tube into the hole with grease work? i think that this lets the wheel to be like shaking when driving so what can i do? how can i make a bearing or something like dat'? since the wheels and hubs dont come withbearings.

[Mike Bean]

can anyone post pics of the tie rods and how are they made? i would also like to look at the steering bars. Is it ok if i used a screw for tie rods? im thinkin of using the 7/8 tubes also for steering, i would not like my steering system to brake at 60 mph :S lol, any suggestions mike?? thanks bro :D

If you want a strong and reliable steering system, I would suggest purchasing some racing tie rods. They are not that expenisive, like $25 or close to that. If you are unsure on how to make them, then I would definitely purchase some. Don't take the chance.


:blob_red:
-mbean

[Mike Bean]

BTW thank you very much for all the guys helping me out in here, specially u mbean. I have another question for you bro. I still need to buy the 2 front wheels. They are expensive (140.0$) for both including the hubs. However since these will be the wheels that should be loose can you help me out to figure a way in which i could make the wheels be loose? i mean the hub hole is .90" will the very used way of having like a .89" tube into the hole with grease work? i think that this lets the wheel to be like shaking when driving so what can i do? how can i make a bearing or something like dat'? since the wheels and hubs dont come withbearings.

I am not sure I am understanding you, but when you buy a wheel hub kit, you get the hub, bolts and berings. I think you are trying to make too many of your parts to save a few $$$.

Barstool Racers are built from mainly gokart parts which are readily available and very cheap for most of the stuff.

As for your front rims and tires...The tires and rims and usually some of the most expenisive parts to get. If you are trying to save money, I would suggest searching eBay for a used set. When I purchased my rims and tires I think I spent $360 for everything. But then I had to have the best of the best... :tongue:

-mbean

[elvergon]

MAN! THATS EXPENSIVE!

well actually i bought used rims and tires from an ATV. I couldnt buy the rear axle of the ATV ($$$$) so i had to make something to fit on the hub for the rear axle. The hub had .90" in diameter and the 3/4 cold rolled steel tube is .75" so i had to buy and industrial 24mm screw which i could put it in the hub and i will need to weld the screw to the axle(ill look for a pic of the screw into the hub so you can see what i did). Now, Ill need to buy the same wheels for the front. If everything goes the same, ill spend $140, and will get again a hub that will have .90" in diameter. Now the front wheels should be loose. If I do the same as with the rear wheels, ill have a screw that wont let the wheel to spin ( i really dont know how the front wheels of the ATV come like i think that they have bearings). Probably ill be looking for the whole bearing/hub/wheel from an used ATV. I think thats the most reasonable. I was asking because money is important for me. Ohh and by the way, here in Mexico go kart parts are EXPENSIVE. I went to one of the 2 stores here that sell go kart parts and they told me that a seat was 140 bucks!!!!!!!!!! OMGG A SEAT!!!!!!!!. I also asked for some other stuff and get out of the store crying becouse i coulndt afford a single chain ! lol!.

Ohhh and about the tie rods, i really dont think that they could work becouse if i get some that are a little longer i cant work with them becouse its aluminum and im using oxy-acetylene, i dont know if it can be welded or something, but ive tried and its impossible!. So thats why i was asking about them. I think that i will have to experiment. Thank you anyway bro. I didnt advance much today. I could only make the hole for the bearings of the rear axle, and cut some steel pieces that whill hold the A arm to the frame. Also i made the plate that should go welded to the steering tube and where the tie rods go into. Thats pretty much for today, it was a busy day. I hope tomorrow will let me weld everything i have to. Ill try to post pics today, if i cant, probably tomorrow.

[elvergon]

yesterdays advances werent too much. I could weld the A arm to the chassis and i could make a part for the steering, where the tie rods unite. That was pretty much for yesterday but now the suspension system is getting into shape. Ill take pics on the afternoon of the advance. Probably on the weekend ill go looking for the steering system and probably the wheels ( if dad can lend me the 140 bucks). If not i would be looking for the shocks which will probably be a lot cheaper. Probably whats for today is welding the brake system support i mean the caliper and also probably ill be looking in the week end for the brake disc holder.

[elvergon]

this is the A arm that will be holding the shock and the spindle brackets

[elvergon]

both A arms at the frame (still need to grind some things)

[elvergon]

close up at the A arm and the holder. The tube that is welded to the frame and holds the A arm is supported by 5mm plate over it and under it.

[elvergon]

here you can see both of the industrial bearings that will hold the axle. And you can also see the brake motorcycle caliper, i still need to make where it will go welded.

[monkey-1]

What kind of shocks are you going to use? I ran across some on ebay like this one:
http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/bikeshock.jpg

Do a search for bicycle shock and you will find them. You can get a set of 4 for about $50.

That brings me to the next question. Are you going to have rear suspension??

[elvergon]

thats exactly the shocks i was planning to use, but ebay wont work for me here on Mexico. Ill try going looking for some shock stores here and see what i can find. Actually the idea of the shocks came out when i was looking at that shock on your pic in my bike, tought it would be nicer. No i wont have rear suspension, probably my next barstool racer will :D but that would be some more fab for me right now and time and money is the least i have. What do you think monkey on making my own disc holder for the 3/4 axle? would it be hard? i got lots of 5 mm plate and some 1" tube. I dont think that i could find a 3/4" disc holder for the disc i have.

[elvergon]

the looking of actual BSR

[elvergon]

probably disc brake location

[elvergon]

rear end view

[elvergon]

98 first and hopefully last stupid problem. Didnt measure where chain would be when building chassis, so now i need to cut it and strengthen it. You can see the engine sprocket and where would the chain go

[elvergon]

very good shot from the back of it

[elvergon]

another good shot

[elvergon]

this is what i was saying. The rear axle im using its not from a motorcycle its 3/4" so it wont fit a 90/100" hole ( the one of the hub). So i needed to buy a 24mm grade 8 screw and insert it into the hub. The screw will go welded to the 3/4" axle.

[Chewbacca]

Your 3/4" rear axle is ridiculous if you use it offroad with this wheels.

I builds car 4x4, I know what I speak!

Chewbacca.

[Mike Bean]

I am gonig to have to agree with Chewy. I would not run anything smaller than a 1" axle. As a matter of fact, I would use a 1 1/4" for your offroad application.

I think 4 wheelers have atlest a 1" axle. Better to be safe than sorry.

-mbean

:shock:

Your 3/4" rear axle is ridiculous if you use it offroad with this wheels.

I builds car 4x4, I know what I speak!

Chewbacca.

[elvergon]

omg so ill need a 1" cold rolled steel axle??? i wont go offroad, i think that the works that i could go is just to some grassy place or maybe with some rocks. Ok so ill need to get a 1" right?

[Mike Bean]

I would atleast use a 1" for sure. With a 1" I am sure you can get away with some off roading. I bet you could stand on that 3/4" shaft and make it flex?

-mbean


omg so ill need a 1" cold rolled steel axle??? i wont go offroad, i think that the works that i could go is just to some grassy place or maybe with some rocks. Ok so ill need to get a 1" right?

[elvergon]

actually i cant but im 65 kg :$ lol ....i will posts pics in a few mins im finishing the shock supports and i got the shocks too, ok then ill get a 1" :S ill try to return the bearings i have and try to change them for some 1"

[monkey-1]

I have to agree with mbean. I would go nothing less than a 1" and strongly suggest a 1.25". I only use 1.25" axles. I have friends that race that have bent them, so that makes me weary of even going to a 1".

[elvergon]

thank you very much bro. i will use 1.25 then. Im doing this and dont want to regret or rebuild something. Now monkey, what do you think of making my own disc brake holder? i mean the thing that attaches to the braking disc and also to the rear axle??...

[monkey-1]

thank you very much bro. i will use 1.25 then. Im doing this and dont want to regret or rebuild something. Now monkey, what do you think of making my own disc brake holder? i mean the thing that attaches to the braking disc and also to the rear axle??...

What would you make it out of? I think if you can make one that will be strong enough go for it. But, they are only ~$20 and you may find it easier and quicker to buy one already made and bolt it up. Let us know what you decide.

[elvergon]

i can make it out of 5mm steelplate. I dunnowhat can go welded to it so it can attach to the rear axle. I think that id be betted if i buy them but i dont know where i can find a good one since the disc isused and from and old motorcycle that i dont know which type. Also i dont think that any1 that i can find would fit a 1.25 axle. Im going to get the 1.25 according to your advice and mikes too.

[RUBICON]

On the subject of shocks...I looked for over a year to find a source for cheap bike shocks...then last month a goldmine...on ebay...I bought 4 for $22 including shipping...this is a "store" site that has a truckload of them..and all bike parts...straight off the boat from China....cheap as dirt...

[RUBICON]

advice....if you do not have electric starter how are you going to have room to kick start the engine?

[RUBICON]

I see what you are working with from the pictures. Not knowing your resources I cannot advise in too much detail...but...one concern is how the wheel attaches to the axle. They need to be removable so you can fit the axle in the bearings, brake hub, sprocket hub, etc....and the attachment must handle the torque of the axle...keyways, splines, clamp on hubs should be considered...good luck

[elvergon]

i dunno if i posted the pic of the wheel/hub/screw assembly. Thats a big problem i have and I think that i have it solved. The screw goes into the hub and it has a nut. Then the screw will go welded to the axle. Ill weld the screw to the axle when i have the sprocket, disc and all stuff that i need to put into it already there. This should work nice but if i need to change the sprocket or something ill need to cut the rear axle and build one again :S. Probably the solution might be grinding eveyrthing that is not into the 1.25" diameter and i have my doubts wheter something of the screw will be getting out or no. I dunno if i explained myself very good so ill post a pic. Thank you very much for the help RUBI and if you can keep helping me id be pleased. On the weekend im planning to go buy the new axle, bearings, and sprocket, and ill try looking for the braking disc holder, so i can have all the rear axle setup done. Heres the pic of what i expect that could happen with the 1.25" axle and the screws, if something of the screw gets out of the circumference of the axle i might grind it.

What do you think?
Camera is no t here so i cant take the pics of the shock mounts but i already bought 2 shocks 650 lb/in and paid $16 dlls for both

[RUBICON]

Your sketch is clear and understandable....but...the weak point will be where the bolt is welded to the axle. This is difficult to do and maintain overall strength...also it will have to be very well alligned after the weld cools ...then the next concern is keeping the hub from spinning on the axle bolt. The bolt alone cannot grip enough to keep the connection from slipping...also ...did you figure how to kickstart it?

[elvergon]

yeah i kno and understand this. Do you think the screw will hold??? its 24mm, and it seems pretty rigid. I think that if I tack weld it I can have it very nice aligned. I also plan on using a electric motor that I have from one of those old antennas (the antenna was more than 70kg) that had motors to move it. It has a lot of torque I just need to find a good battery for it and make a motor case. I think that the screw could hold the hub very well becouse it fits very tightly and also the nut seems to be having it very tight but i haven try it so i dont have much experience. If you dont think that the "screw hub" system would not work, what can you suggest me??? thanks!

[monkey-1]

That hub is not going to hold unless its a splined shaft or you use a keyway. I dont care how tight you get it, its going to slip. You dont want to weld it, that will make changing bearing and such too difficult.

[elvergon]

can you explain what is a keyway?? i dont think that i can get a splined shaft :S

[monkey-1]

A keyway is a notch in the hub and axle. Then you put a small square 'key' (called keystock) into that gives you a positive mount. Its a simpler design than a splined shaft.

[elvergon]

ok, let me see if i get this straight, is the drawing showing a good keyway??

thank you very much for the help monkey!....

and if so...is there any kind of sizes that i must use? or should i just go like i think itll be ok?...

another question, do you think i could do that in the screw i have? do you think it might handle the force? its a 24mm...

thanks monkey!

[elvergon]

sorry forgot the pic, here it is

[elvergon]

heres some pics....this is the hub i got its from the atv wheel...as you can see, i grinded the splines inside so the screw would fit...

[elvergon]

this is the screw as you can see its about 1 6/10" so if i use this one i would need to grind lots of it...on the spiral ( not counting the head) it has 9/10" of diameter...could this screw with the keyway hold the stress?? any inputs?

[elvergon]

this are the shock mounts i made, its 5 mm more than necessary.

[elvergon]

this is a shock/mounts assembly need to fab the steering first so i can see where should i mount them.

[monkey-1]

sorry forgot the pic, here it is

Yes, this is what I was talking about. Im not sure how you are going to get this to work. You may have to use the rear axle from the atv as well so that the splines will work. The only other way that I can think of that will work would be a tapered shaft. That way you would be able to tighten the nut enough to make it stay tight. Keep us posted on the progress, the shock mounts look good and beefy.

[elvergon]

well actually I grinded the splines from the hub so i dont think that i could use them anymore. I talked with a friend of mine and he told me that he could make the keyway for me. I think that i could do that on the screw and on the hub like you said do you think that could work?. What is a tappered shaft??....dont you think that the keyway would be ok? i think that he might be able to do them in about 1-2 weeks but something is better than nothing...

sure ill keep posting :D im learning a lot from you guys, thanks for all the help and sorry if im a pain in the a$. Ill try not to make stupid questions.

[RUBICON]

Idea...If you have no way to cut the keyway...the axle keyway can be done on a milling machine or a narrow abrasive cut off wheel and a lot of finesse..but the hub keyway will have to be broached. This will require a machine shop for sure.....so....I have done this before...insert the axle in the hub and carefully drill a hole that is in the seam between the axle and hub...start with a small drill and work up to about 6mm.....insert a rod for a key...or tap the hole and use a 6mm hardened bolt...this is a makeshift keyway..good luck

[elvergon]

hey rubi! nice to hear again from ya...look im a mexican, and you are talking in russian for me....i have access to the milling machine, well a friend of mine does, and he will make my axle keyway, but can you explain again the one on the huB?? maybe a drawing or a pic might help :$ sorry for being so bothering :$ i included one drawing that explains what i understood...thanks rubi....did i got the idea??'

[monkey-1]

well actually I grinded the splines from the hub so i dont think that i could use them anymore. I talked with a friend of mine and he told me that he could make the keyway for me. I think that i could do that on the screw and on the hub like you said do you think that could work?. What is a tappered shaft??....dont you think that the keyway would be ok? i think that he might be able to do them in about 1-2 weeks but something is better than nothing...

sure ill keep posting :D im learning a lot from you guys, thanks for all the help and sorry if im a pain in the a$. Ill try not to make stupid questions.

Keep posting man! There are no stupid questions, except the ones not asked!

[elvergon]

hey monkey,tnkss!....can you help me?? did i draw what rubi was saying??? or am i wrong? ohh btw, will this makeshift keyway work with the screw im using?? becouse the axle is 1.25" and the hub is .90" so the axle will not fit in there :S....

[RUBICON]

Your sketch of the keyway was correct. What I am suggesting is that you have the axle machined with a square sided groove in it....then the hub will have to have a similar square sided groove cut into the inside of it...that is where a square sided "key" is inserted. Your friend can mill the groove in the axle....but the key in the hub is a "broaching " operation. A broach is a part of a set of tools for making an internal keyway...like inside of a pulley on a motor...the set has several sizes for different sizes of hubs...the broaching tool has a mandrel that fits the hole in the hub....then a cutting tool the size of a small file with teeth on it like a saw is pressed thru the hub...it cuts a square groove in the inside of the hub....above all..no matter what you do the axle must fit close in the hub....my suggestion of the drilled hole was if you cannot do the broaching operation...and your sketch of that was correct..your friend that has the milling machine should be able to improvise as well as you do....good luck

[RUBICON]

Can your friend turn the ends down to .90 on a lathe?

[RUBICON]

http://mdmetric.com/dumont/prod2a.html
go here to see a pic of a broaching tool set

[elvergon]

yeah, im sure he can, but the problem isss that if i reduce it to .90 i wont be able to use the nut of the screw...sooo how will i stop the wheel from coming out??...
thanks bro...ill do what u just told me :D

[tharaw]

you might want to try a [SIZE=7]bigger axle

[tharaw]

you might want to try a bigger axle

[elvergon]

If my friend turns down the axle to .90 how will I be able to prevent the wheel from coming off?? :S ! This weekend im hoping ill have the front A arms welded onto the chassis with the shocks and shocks supports on it as well. Im going real slow because Dad (where a lot of the money comes from) told me to make the rear axle and have all the problems solved and then i could go on with the steering and other problems....so im waiting for my friend to have time so we can work on the keyway...and also im into SAE (society of automotive engineers) mini baja (like a buggy) contest....if we have all the repairment done in 2 weeeks ill be going somewhere to compete :D hope everything goes fine!

[elvergon]

you might want to try a bigger axle

a bigger axle?? taking into account ill be using the 1.25"???

[Chewbacca]

Hi,

My rear axle : 1.6"

and my barstool is not an offroad barstool !

Chewbacca.

[elvergon]

Hi,

My rear axle : 1.6"

and my barstool is not an offroad barstool !

Chewbacca.

1.6" in diameter??? but its hollow right??? is 1.25" cold rolled steel not enough??? please tell me before i go buy the 1.25.....

i wont be using it on offroad...the worst i could go its some grass or maybe some dirt with little rocks

[Chewbacca]

Héhéhé,

1.25 it's OK ! Better than a 3/4".

Chewbacca.

[elvergon]

Héhéhé,

1.25 it's OK ! Better than a 3/4".

Chewbacca.


k tnks bro =) ....btw chewy (or anyone here) any idea on how to assemble the front spindles??....if i buy some wheels like the ones i already have they will come with the hub, but the hub doesnt have any type of bearing inside and i dont think that it has the enough space for putting some of them inside (.90"). ...if i use the screw i already have and insert it on the hub (like my previous front splindle drawing) would it work?' maybe I could put a lot of grease inside the screw/hub assembly. If i use anytype of bearing inside the hub I would have to use a smaller diameter screw and probably itd be too weak to handle the weight or stress.

How do atv front wheels come assembled? anyone knows?? any good advice on how to deal with this problem???

( i tought of buying the front spindles of an actual ATV but I think that it would be paying too much and probably they would be aluminum and i cant oxy-ace aluminum (also i dont think that i could weld it to steel).

Pleaseee any help??

[elvergon]

hey guysss pleasee...anybody? =(

[InsaneSpeed]

I'm using a 1.25" -.250 wall Chrome Moly axle in my kart with a 600 F2 engine. Its rated about 100hp. So far it hasn't given any problems.