Front end Camber

[BSROKC]

Just wondering if front end camber in different BSR designs are crucial. I have noticed that racing karts have adjustable camber(for obvious reasons). Just wondering if any of you have had any concerns about this. As these BSR's seem to be reaching higher and higher speeds it only seems that camber should be a major interest. What do you think? Who out there is running frame designs that work better with higher speeds?

[VashRazr83]

I put it in mine to help it run straighter at top speed and also help me turn at any speed. I say it is needed, but never have rode one without it. Just makes sence to me though, wouldn't drive anything ment for speed without it. Just my 2 cents worth

[BSROKC]

Do you have any idea how much. Are there plans out there that have it built in?

[VashRazr83]

I did mine by sight, with this tool that magnetically sticks to the frame to get a simular angle. Exact isn't needed, just close.

[CritterBuddy]

Are you guys talking about the same thing? The reason I ask is for clarification as most home built BSRs and go-karts normally do a caster adjustment rather than a camber adjustment. See the attached pics and you'll see what I mean.

The reason most home builds do the caster is because it is easier to do merely by tilting back your spindle assembly (king pins) when you attach them to your BSR. Camber of course can be done but you normally have to either build your own spindle assemblies or modify what you buy. Though most home builds do the caster I have seen both on commercially available vehicles.

Regardless of what the pics say, the amount of tilt for both caster and camber is dependent upon a lot of factors such as length of wheelbase, weight on front end, live axle, etc. Normal ranges for both are between 5-15 degrees with the average around 8-10 degrees. This measurement is approximate as mentioned before HOWEVER it must be measured from the ground and not from your frame. It is the action of your tire against the ground that makes the angle correct.

EDIT CORRECTION - Sorry, I was having a Senior moment and it's been awhile since I used this information. Camber is actually the measurement of tire tilt (top of tire in or out) and should be 0 - 1/16" negative as the pic indicates. I got to talking about KPI (king pin inclination) which helps do the same thing as adjusting your camber.

[Thunderbolt51]

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

[Thunderbolt51]

http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/ackerman.html

[c.schulz]

Added 7.5+ to mine. Have not rode it yet but first I started with 15+ and at full turn it lifted the rear wheel off the ground 1/4" so I went back to 7.5+ for 1/8" lift just to help transfer weight off inside wheel. Keep in mind this is with no rider so I think that the frame will have enough flex to just help with weight transfer and high speed stability.
PS. Heff dont pick on welds!!!:laughing:

Chris
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v347/cschulz/7.5DegreecamberMedium.jpg

[fleebag]

Let me get this straight, Chris...So you tilted the top of the spindle in back towards the seat 7.5 degrees as you would find them on a protractor?

[Heff]

I`m not one to put ya down. I`m a self taught welder myself!!
Have fun this summer....It`s finally gettin warm! Heff

[c.schulz]

Let me get this straight, Chris...So you tilted the top of the spindle in back towards the seat 7.5 degrees as you would find them on a protractor?

Yep, just like a protractor. What this does as you turn in it pushes the wheel into the ground and it lifts that same side rear wheel. I found a video on youtube to help explain.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSeK_zUXLHI&feature=related


And Heff Ive gotten better with the welding. Still not great but getting better.

Chris

[fleebag]

Chris, you only put camber in your front wheels don't you?

[c.schulz]

Chris, you only put camber in your front wheels don't you?

Nope, I also put 2* neg. camber or less if you like. I feel it takes some of the twitchy steering out along with 1/6 to 1/8" toe out for higher speed stabilizing.

Chris:wave:

[bm1]

Camber adjustment on a BSR should be 0 or -1 degree(in at the top). These things are so short wheel base that camber won't matter much, unless you get crazy and put a ton of it in it, then you will have your hands full. Castor on the other hand goes the same way.....short wheel base. Castor should be no more than 8 degrees. Any more than that and you're going to have a hard time turning it. As for flex in the chassis....you're not going to get much since these are made out of square tube. Square tube has no torsional flex. It's all up and down, or side to side. I do a lot of chassis repairs on the Formula 500 cars and they are made from square tube. They have a lot of frame cracks due to not being able to flex. But as far as castor and camber.....camber-0 to 1 degree, and castor, 8 degrees. Toe....if you have ackerman steering-0, in non-ackerman, 1/16" toe in.

[turbopig]

Hi guys,

newbie here. I just finished building my first BSR, but it's a wagon instead of a bar stool. I started with a slightly longer than competition spec frame, and hung the motor on the back. It does make it a little light in the front without a rider, but I weigh @ 190 so I figured it wouldn't be a problem. I put about 5 degrees of castor on it and when I turn it picks the outside front wheel up instead of the inside rear, which means it doesn't turn, just pushes. If I lean out to plant the front tire, it will turn. I'm wondering if I should just go back to 0 degrees so both front tires will stay on the ground. It might still push some, but I'm thinking it'll work. You guys have any suggestions?

Thanks!