Has anyone built a electric barstool?

[elvergon]

Howdy, im planning on building an electric barstool using very cheap stuff. I want to do it electric, and ive seen people use electric starters from cars. Has anyone here made one? how do they work? any input? How long does the battery lasts?

[sniffles]

i havent but heres some links to people who have http://userpages.umbc.edu/~cfleis1/barstool.htm pics
http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/5565/barstool.html pics
http://www.barstoolracing.net/Electric_Powered_Bar_Stool_Plans.htm basic plan
http://www.barstoolracing.net/Electricstools.htm pics
this probably doesnt help but i thought you might enjoy them

[RUBICON]

There are..or I should say "there were" several sites that had pics and a few with great details on electric stools...the major differences were they all seem be real scrap built compared to kart engined ones...the motors are car starters ...mostly Japanese...Hondas and such...they have gear reduction built in and also allow better output shaft support for installing a pully or sprocket..also no speed control...just a starter solenoid...and a cheap band brake or scrubber on the rear tires...the best is teh starting....lean forward quickly and at the same time hit the button...the weight transfer allows the hard rear tires to spin ( a little ) then as it lurches forward hold on and tap the button.....good luck.....oh......the batteries are not th eproblem...the motor doesn't like more than a few minutes of running without a cool down...

[Mike Bean]

Howdy, im planning on building an electric barstool using very cheap stuff. I want to do it electric, and ive seen people use electric starters from cars. Has anyone here made one? how do they work? any input? How long does the battery lasts?

I would not use a starter motor because they are made for short term use. Continuous use will burn them out. Get something you can have a variable speed and run for a while.

Mike Bean

[monkey-1]

I would try to find an old Rascal scooter or electric wheel chair. It would have all of the parts you need, speed control, controls, motor, even wheels if you wanted to use them.

[RUBICON]

DITTO...I have a wagon ( the pics are somewhere in the photo section ) that has a scooter transaxle. The cheapest way is to start with a complete scooter if you find one cheap enough ( good luck ). It sounds simple and less expensive...but not so...first the speed is limited to around 6mph ( not practical to regear unless you design a jackshaft to gear up the driveshafts...second the batteries ( 2 are needed for 24vdc ) start @ around $50 ea wholesale ( mine are $80 ea for 55ah gel cell units ) ..third..the speed controller ( PWM ) starts @ $50 if lucky on e-bay and averages around $100..mine retails for $650...cost me $85..it fried and I replaced it for $110....fourth ...the speed control ( pot ) seems simple...5k ohm spring return to center...tried building my own twice and ended up buying a factory one for $50...then wiring...throttle lever...and oh yes..programming..if it has a real mobility scooter controller the program can be modified to alter the accelleration and decel curves and 40 or so other parameters...all this is to say it is another area of fabrication that has advantages..and challanges....good luck...will advise if needed

[WOTracer]

Actually I have been thinking of this project for awhile! I agree in using a complete electric system from an electric vehicle. I already have converted my father's Shriner "mini-T" to electric using the "guts" for an elctric go-kart. The now defunked company - Kango karts use to produce electric go karts. Picked one up dirt cheap ($200) and used the components to convert the mini-T. The motor is equivalent to a 5hp gas motor with very linear torque. The "grunt" for a standing stop is truely amazing. Now this is a 36v DC and at this voltage I bet the little car can get close to 30 mph---and it has REVERSE!!. The downside is battery weight. The electric motor and components weigh slightly less then a comparable 5hp gas motor. The batteries (depending on the maH) can be heavy and costly. I have the cost side beat, have a brother-in-law in the wheelchair business. The mini-T is using batterys about the size of a standard car (group 72)--read 40lb apiece. My new project is an electric BSR or wagon. In this project the only change would be using much smaller batteries. My hardest part was finding another donor----ebay came through. Found a complete motor with electrics for about $100. Now of I only settle in an finish the 1/2 dozon other projects. Winters coming so hopefully I can get started...........


Steve
Wide Open Throttle Racing

[RUBICON]

When you get close to starting another electric project I can swap experience with you based on my wagon.....

[Terry Skinner]

I have an electric barstool that I have been messing with. The drive axle is out of an electric 3 wheel cart. Problem is I need an adaptor to get the cool gokart wheels to fit. Does anyone know where I can get these adaptors??? Picture attached.........Terry

[RUBICON]

I have the identical setup that you have on my wagon...I have a bronze bushing that is axle size ID and hub size OD....I cut a 1/4" piece out of the side of it and made a custom key that was thicker and passed thru the slot inthe bushing....The key is secondary to the clamping force you get with the hub...and you can get longer hubs that have 2 clamping screws.

[Terry Skinner]

I have the identical setup that you have on my wagon...I have a bronze bushing that is axle size ID and hub size OD....I cut a 1/4" piece out of the side of it and made a custom key that was thicker and passed thru the slot inthe bushing....The key is secondary to the clamping force you get with the hub...and you can get longer hubs that have 2 clamping screws.

I will try Tacoma Screw products tomorrow and see if they have anything. Next question is what did you do for brakes?? Hate to do some hokie plate that rubs on the tire. Thanks.........Terry

[RUBICON]

If you have a real mobility scooter transaxle it has a disk brake. The disk is not a brake in the sense that it slows you down. It is a holding brake. It engages when the motor has stopped. The controller of a scooter has a PWM ( pulse width modifier ) that controls the voltage and amperage to the motor ( and other stuff to ). When you let off the throttle input the motor reverts to a "regeneration" mode where the motor is now a generator and the current it produces is "shunted". This means it is magnetically braked. The controller should have several programmable parameters ( mine has a hundred or so ) like decel rate..set it at a short time and the motor will stop the axle pretty fast...then the brake will engage..somewhere in th epicture threads are several pics of my wagon chassis with batteries, suspension, controls, transaxle, etc. I am spending spare time this winter fabricating a billet aluminum dropped front axle with coilover shocks, wishbone link for th efront and 4-bar link for the rear.....FUN STUFF

[Terry Skinner]

[QUOTE=RUBICON]If you have a real mobility scooter transaxle it has a disk brake. The disk is not a brake in the sense that it slows you down. It is a holding brake.

So that was what all that was. It was damaged and I didn't get the original controler with it. got a different controler from Cloud Electric in Renton. One thing I was wondering about is using back EMF to produce the effect of braking. Usta work in a slot car. Electric is not my strong sute but that is why we do these things is to learn..........Terry

[RUBICON]

Scooter transaxles are a bargan on e-bay...2-pole ones are $59 or so and once in a while a 4-pole shows up. I guess you could do without th ebrake in as much as it doesn't engage till the speed is zero ( the programmable controllers let you set the threshold of this svent like starting on hills you may want the brake to hold till the motor torque is enough to not roll back ) I use a curtis instruments controller ( fully programmable) with a 5K curtis throttle pot ( it is heavy duty spring return to center ) center ( 2.5K is off ) and one way is forward and the other is reverse ( programing can limit the reverse speed as well as top speed and forward accel and decel rates ( this is the regen you need to stop ),,,did you see the pics of the electric chassis I have? What are the attributes of the controller you have? like continuous AMPs and throttle input type and program features?

[Terry Skinner]

I use a curtis instruments controller ( fully programmable) with a 5K curtis throttle pot ( it is heavy duty spring return to center ) center ( 2.5K is off ) and one way is forward and the other is reverse ( programing can limit the reverse speed as well as top speed and forward accel and decel rates ( this is the regen you need to stop ),,,did you see the pics of the electric chassis I have? What are the attributes of the controller you have? like continuous AMPs and throttle input type and program features?

Sounds like the Curtis is just what I need. The controler I have now is from an electric 2 wheel scooter. Has a twist grip throttle and no reverse. I will dig it out tomorrow and get the specs. Yes, I did see your wagon. I love it. Especally the foot pegs. ...........Terry

[sniffles]

http://www.dmachine.tv/barstool.html

[Terry Skinner]

Scooter transaxles are a bargan on e-bay...2-pole ones are $59 or so and once in a while a 4-pole shows up.

I am going to assume that the 4 pole has more power. Short of dismantling a motor how do I tell the difference?? You have got me looking for another electric drive so that I can build a wagon similar to yours. I love to go to the Bug-in and that wagon would be very useful...........Terry

[RUBICON]

The way u tell poles of the motor is easy..the brush holders are visible...2 means 2 pole
4 means 4 pole...I will say that I ( 285lb) have sat on my wagon....with a small trailer behind with my son in lay (135lb) and 30lb of stuff in the wagon...after walking with for 12 miles ( per the digital bike odometer ) we rode it for 1-1/2 miles around the outside of Charlotte motor speedway after the second day of shopping...and at the top of a steep paved hill coming out of the vip parking area the circuit breaker tripped....no wonder...i reset it and we went the last 1/4 mile....it was a thrill passing all the custom cars in the traffic jam...all that is to say that the drive system is majorly tough and fool proof...i have some ideas about throttle control...most good controllers use 5k pots rather than the hall effect that the toy scooters use...you can configure a programmable controller for 5k pot center off or single ended...this means you can use a costly ( $50 ) spring to center 5k pot for fwd/rev or a plain 5k with a reverse switch...either will work with some controllers....and as you know with some mobility expert advice....smaller batteries work for space conciderations...just for not as long....and my experience is that the 2ea 35 ah I now use will go 25+miles with me riding it...I have a pair of 55ah gels but don't use them....your resourse will advise you best on the newest gel cels over lead acid...use a good charger

[Terry Skinner]

[QUOTE=RUBICON]The way u tell poles of the motor is easy..the brush holders are visible...2 means 2 pole...4 means 4 pole...
So are you saying that the 2 pole is better than the 4 pole??

[RUBICON]

4 pole motors have more torque...think of it like a 4 cylinder vs. a 2 cylinder....however I weigh 280lb...my son-in-law weighs around 160lb...we wer on my wagon and trailer...with a 50lb load of stuff....after 12 miles shopping @ charlotte motor speedway...rode 2 miles and up a hill....on my 2-pole 850 watt motor

[Terry Skinner]

[QUOTE=RUBICON]i have some ideas about throttle control...most good controllers use 5k pots rather than the hall effect that the toy scooters use...you can configure a programmable controller for 5k pot center off or single ended...this means you can use a costly ( $50 ) spring to center 5k pot for fwd/rev or a plain 5k with a reverse switch...either will work with some controllers.

Is there a chance of getting you to take some pictures of the components you are using?? Is the 5k pot mounted on the handle? Or do you have it mounted underneath and run it with a cable? Seems to me that for the wagon a programmable controller set up on the bell curve would be best. How did you program the controller? Specifically what is the procedure? Is it done with a laptop? I have a million questions about your wagon. Where do you live and what kind of beer do you drink?
Thanks.....Terry

[RUBICON]

I first tried to build my own "spring return to center " device for a standard 5k pot and gave up when it was too large and ugly. I bought a Curtis unit 2 years ago for $50..I see them now for $75...kinda pricey...but small and can be mounted in a number of ways...i will get a few close up pics for you...it is mounted on the pull handle of the wagon...with a billet lever for fingertip control...I have the accel and decel curve set so as to allow me to start and stop walking with it without anyone knowing it is powered...I borrowed a programmer ( handheld )...from Bohlinger...they rent them by the week ....my guess $20-30/week...I have 2 new spare controllers off of e-bay and before spring I will copy one and and modify the setup on the other...like for powering a lazyboy or something ...I am beyond beer....I favor the kind made in Lynchburg Tenn...I worked for Lem Motlow's brother in law 40 years ago...
ps..I am close to completing the latest upgrades to the wagon and also have new pics and a couple of videos to post of the barstool...THANKS

[Terry Skinner]

[QUOTE=RUBICON] ...I am beyond beer....I favor the kind made in Lynchburg Tenn

As conversation goes a good smooth Scotch can't be beat. But after a long day, lungs full of welding smoke, and everyone standing around the back of a pickup looking a some old flathead Ford engine you can't beat beer........

[Terry Skinner]

I am close to completing the latest upgrades to the wagon and also have new pics and a couple of videos to post of the barstool...THANKS

I found the pictures you had referred to in an earlier post. They are not posted under your name. They are under studmonkey. After looking them over real good I have come to the conclusion that you do good work... I found the Curtis controller along with the batteries, but not the 5k pot. Looking forward to more pictures. By the way what is the model number for the Curtis controller?? Cloud Electric has one of the programers for sale.
http://www.cloudelectric.com/category.html?UCIDs=1215201
Thanks.........Terry

[RUBICON]

When living in Jacksonville Tenn. 3 of us took a van across the river to Missouri to buy Coors when you could only buy it there and Colo. and KS....we bought 17 cases..the cops followed us out of town...so ...being paranoid we drove South to Memphis rather than get caught over the river...it took 4 hours longer to get home....we did 2 more stupid stunts...changed drivers while on cruise control and my buddy got on his knees by the sliding door...opened it....and pissed out the door....I grabbed his belt gust in time to keep him from falling face forward out the door...and the door...inside and out was drenched as was my buddy.....remember "Don't piss in the wind!"....In 1982 on I-70 West of Rifle Colo. I pulled onto the right paved shoulder of the 4 lane with trucks in the 2 Eastbound lanes...to hand a quart of St. Paulie Girl to the Construction Safety Man in a company truck.......well....Thanks for the compliments...I need to post the new suspension...its a hoot...the controller is 1228 I think...look for the small ( size of your hand) blue unit...also the pot is on the Curtis site it is a # WP 45...get the cut sheet with dimensional drawing....I will work on pics...I will send you the throttle pics maybe tonight...THANKS
ps: that is the good programmer that does all parameters...I have a mobility one ( older ) that does the basic setup.

[RUBICON]

Terry ...Here is/are pics of my throttle on the handle of my wagon it is a Curtis WP-45 with all home made stuff. Move it up for FWD and down for REV....I am working on a new complete billet handle with a on/off added and place for XM radio antenna....I love my "OLDIES FROM OUTER SPACE"

[RUBICON]

Attached are preview pics of new suspension for my Auto Flea Market and Car Show wagon....now has billet dropped front axle like Superbell and 4-link rear with panhard bars and coilover shocks....XM radio works also...

[curt]

Attached are preview pics of new suspension for my Auto Flea Market and Car Show wagon....now has billet dropped front axle like Superbell and 4-link rear with panhard bars and coilover shocks....XM radio works also...

These pictures may well show some great stuff, but they are so small that it is hard to tell. Don't be so stingy on the electrons. Post BIG pictures.
-curt

[RUBICON]

Very sorry about the pics...I have a 8.5 megapixel cam that I struggle to reduce the file size to fit the requirements of this forum. I will continue to experiment to get it right...you are right that the detail is totally lost...when I do get it right I need to post a set for each machine with movie files also...THANKS

[Terry Skinner]

These pictures may well show some great stuff, but they are so small that it is hard to tell.curt

I don't mean to be picky but I think the guy is right.
Did you mfg. the shocks your self?? I am working on "A" frames for the front of my "beer truck" barstool. Got the idea/measurements from a mini quad at Shucks autoparts and your shocks would work out great. Only looking for 2" of travel max. Could live with 1" if I had to. Thanks..........Terry

[cliffordrd2000]

go to ebay auction site auction number 7228013755 they sell motors for electric motor bikes make a mounting frame for the motor bolt to frame of barstool racer use chain to drive axle and experiment with different sprockets to make go faster all you need is a electric throttle that has three wires coming out of it the motor even comes with a diagram of where to hook up the wires for the throttle and the power inputs cant be much simpler than that it is a 24 volt system you can even add a 6 volt power boast to it but make sure you disconnect the 6 volt battery from the 24 volt battery system charge the 6 volt system alone and the 24volt system alone if i can find link to the wiring of the 6 volt boast ill post later i have talked to mech. enginers and they say the motor and throttle theory will work you will start out slow with a little twist of the throttle and faster take off with a faster twist of the throttle good luck im building my first one and plan on building more after i get the rest of the frame work done as i own a bar and would like to have races in my bar or back lot

[cliffordrd2000]

go to ebay auction #7228013755 seller electricscooting for simple elec motor bike motor, mount on frame using home made mounting bracket. use twist throttle from auction #7228016386 seller ccscooterparts. motor bike handle bars and rear axle with chain drive, experiment with diff. sprockets for more speed the motor auction even shows were the wires need to be connected good luck its worth looking into

[stoolin'around]

go to ebay auction site auction number 7228013755 they sell motors for electric motor bikes make a mounting frame for the motor bolt to frame of barstool racer use chain to drive axle and experiment with different sprockets to make go faster all you need is a electric throttle that has three wires coming out of it the motor even comes with a diagram of where to hook up the wires for the throttle and the power inputs cant be much simpler than that it is a 24 volt system you can even add a 6 volt power boast to it but make sure you disconnect the 6 volt battery from the 24 volt battery system charge the 6 volt system alone and the 24volt system alone if i can find link to the wiring of the 6 volt boast ill post later i have talked to mech. enginers and they say the motor and throttle theory will work you will start out slow with a little twist of the throttle and faster take off with a faster twist of the throttle good luck im building my first one and plan on building more after i get the rest of the frame work done as i own a bar and would like to have races in my bar or back lot
There is a bar in Appleton, Wisconsin that has been doing electric barstool racing inside around a round bar for the last 7-8 years. I have 8 electric barstools (4 with foot throttle control) with bumpers, brakes,chain guards and numbers that would be great for racing. Going to be selling them off as a group (with spare parts) or individually soon. Will get pictures up on site.

[RUBICON]

Don't forget the PWM controller...Thats what the battery, motor and throttle hook to...It converts the 24VDC to a pulsed square wave to regulate the power to the motor...good luck

[Frank McGrath]

I am a fork lift tech by trade and have a few parts available to me from electric lift trucks. I am using a frame I bought on ebay. My motor came from a 24 volt pallet jack. the controller (curtis)is from another pallet jack . I am using the speed pot from the control handle and mounting it in a small box that will hold the horn button and the reversing switch. I mounted the box on the steering support tubes. I bought all the harness plugs and pins from our parts dept. Once i get the motor and controller mounted, all I will have to do is wire it up. I have the wiring diagram for the controller. If and when I get it finished, I will post pictures.

Frank

[4jacksman]

New Today, Searchin like mad !
Did this get built ?
Great site! I'm always looking for EV links. And GREAT info.

[Scooter Jim]

Knowing I needed a campground cruizer more than a racer, here's my first build:
http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/4089/barmockfinal3ok2.jpg

I inverted the handelbars for that 'old timer' look.

http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/4996/barmockfinal4uk4.jpg

http://img58.imageshack.us/img58/2126/barmockfinal5qw4.jpg

500 watt
24 volt
Max speed 14mph


Silent, effective and a wonderful party cruzer.

I'm considering paint.

[Redrooster]

Hi Scooter Jim.... Welcome...The electric BSR looks awesome... Can you give anymore detail on parts that you used to build it?

[el~bryce~o]

didnt read all the all of the answer but i dont no if i would use a starter motor as i dont think is will last long as they arents ment to keep on going all the time..but i maybe wrong

[chris insull]

Hi Scooter Jim.... Welcome...The electric BSR looks awesome... Can you give anymore detail on parts that you used to build it?
X2... A detailed parts list would be GREAT! Primarily from the batteries to the final drive...