new set up Hydraulic Brakes, could use some help..

[altrego30]

I am setting up the hydraulic breaks,
Running the Hydraulic lines is not the issues.
How do you connect the Master cylinder to the controller?
Im thinking about drilling a a hole in a bolt to feed the wire through.
There are 3 holes in the lever, which is the best to use?

And..
Where is the best place to mount the master cylinder?
I have been fighting with that one for over a hour now,
and still havn't figured it out.

[monkey-1]

The different holes are for more or less leverage (or throw). Use whichever one will work best for your application. I mounted my master on the right side along the frame:

I used the top hole, it worked best for me.

[altrego30]

Ok, Yes I have seen that Pic, so how did you hook it up? to the brake controller?
My Frame is a little different, pics in another thread, that spot will not work for me, but thank you.

[altrego30]

How do you connect the Master cylinder to the controller?:dizzy:
If anyone has pics, please post them.
Also where anyone mounted the master cylinder, i could use some more ideas.
:drinkup:

[monkey-1]

How do you connect the Master cylinder to the controller?:dizzy:
If anyone has pics, please post them.
Also where anyone mounted the master cylinder, i could use some more ideas.
:drinkup:

Start putting your engine, axle, and barstool on the frame and see where you have room for it. The good thing about the master cylinder is that you can put it close to the caliper, or close to the lever. You can make a mount out of anything, even make a mount that will bolt to your barstool leg. As long as it wont flex you will be fine. Are you using a foot control or handlebar lever? I just put a bolt through the top hole of the master cylinder and wrapped the cable around it, then tightened up the bolt. Since you have used an ATV handlebar setup, you might want to get a handlebar mounted master cylinder. You would be able to get them off of ebay pretty cheap.

[altrego30]

Start putting your engine, axle, and barstool on the frame and see where you have room for it.

Did all of that, just looking for ideas of where people mounted them, I can fab a mount. I have been searching the web for photos and Ideas, I guess we will see what I come up with.
Not to big on the handel bar mounted master cylinder.
I guess I just asking to see pics of mounting locations to get ideas.

[sniffles]

just drill two holes through your frame and bolt it right up. here is a picture of someone that has done this: http://outlawracing.net/gallery-wf.php its one of the pictures on there

[moto1fast]

Hello, This is just my thinking or suggestion mount it on your back down post for steering above the height of your caliper. Mounting your master cyclinder above your caliper makes it easier to bleed your system! It looks like in the picture of your stool the back of the post about 12 inchs from the bottom would be the best place. Just my thoughts!:wave:

[altrego30]

I mounted the caliper on the back, so I will see if I can use the steering support, Im gonna mess with it today.

[altrego30]

I found a place to mount it, the frame is about done now, a few finishing welds and some smoothing, should be ready for primer tomorrow.
Thanks everyone

[1100kaw]

just finished stool this weekend, trying to de-bug a few things.
I'm using handle bars, with mechanical brake lever on bars and nice heavy motorcycle clutch cable. i'm using hydrolic disc set up. heres the problem,
with the cable attached to the top bolt hole,which should provide the most leverage, it is still very hard to squeeze the lever, all is bled well, it stops fair, but the other problem is the travel of the cable, it wont pull the master cylinder far enough to really make the brakes stop hard. Any trick Ideas on how to overcome the leverage/travel problem??
when I move the cable to the bottom hole, this helps the sqeeze factor, but worsens the travel problem.
Any input appreciated.

[altrego30]

when I move the cable to the bottom hole, this helps the sqeeze factor, but worsens the travel problem.
Any input appreciated.

You would figure that the bottom hol would get rig of the travel issue.
I went through the same thing.

[RUBICON]

This may not solve all of your problem but I will offer something related to the length of travel of your brake hand lever....Have you adjusted the caliper pistons so they are very very close to the disk? This will eleminate any free travel the lever has to make before the pads touch. I have read a few comments on people who dont like the idea of handlebar master cylinders...I think they have not tried it...I have done mechanical calipers ( foot / rod actuated ), (hand lever cable actuated), hydraulic foot activated ( mounted front and back ) and finally a Yamaha bike master on the bars.....I love it....one finger..1 inch of lever travel.......If you stay with th ecable setup look at levers that may have more "moment" in the lever pivot...thic will give you more cable stroke...less leverage though...good luck

[1100kaw]

Sounds like your on the money Rubicon,
i had already decided to go the way you mentioned, handle bar mastercylinder. A buddy runs a bike shop and has some nice small after market types. I picked one up, going to try to get to set it up this weekend. I guess i will get a custom line made. Was thinking of possibly hard line, and small hose coupler at the swivel point. Any other ideas?
Probably, small braided will be cool too.
thanks for the input, I'll let you know after the mods are done.

[RUBICON]

OK...you can go a couple of ways....nylon line or braided stainless...the nylon is by far the cheaper...but...I got mine at a race car swap meet for $10 for 12 ft...I took it to a hose shop and had it shortened and another end fitting installed....the most special part you will need is a banjo fitting...they are mostly available at hose shops..and bike shops..mine is an Arlen Ness for a Harley...but hose shops have them to...they are "an" fittings ..that means they adapt to "an" finnings on the end of braided hose...but...you can get adapters to 1/8" nylon kart brake hose....suffice to say....get a metric banjo for one end and a 1/8" male npt on the other...with whatever line and fittings you need in between....then..this is the fab part...the caliper ( if it is a high performance one ) has 2 lines for the twin pistons....get a block of metal (aluminum ) and make a "one in -two out" manifold....the fittings are 1/8"npt...so drill a long hole with 2 intersecting it from 90 degrees..and tap each for the fittings ( look back in a thread I had a pic of mine )...that will split the lines....The key here is ...if you have a hose shop..that makes hydraulic hoses for heavy equipment and such....take the master and the caliper...be patient....explain what a bar stool os...and they will be happy to help you with the options....it will work ....

[altrego30]

Hey RUBICON,
How difficult is it to run hard lines, bending without kinking them, etc...?

[RUBICON]

Are you using stainless or carbon steel?...You can do at lest a 45 with your hands and a pipe if you are carefull...i use a tubing bender....it might be a little work to get to your caliper but if you mount it in front of the axle you can come straight in...are you using a single piston caliper?...that takes only one inlet....are you fabricating a foot linkage?...If you do a handlebar master cylinder you will need some hose for flex...good luck

[altrego30]

the master cylender is mounted to the fram, been useing nylon lines, but was concidering using hard line for the looks, it would clean it up.

[Canadiankid]

Have you thought about using steel braid lines like rubi used for nitrous plumbing.

[altrego30]

Need HYDraulic lines, that can handle the pressure and can stow out of the way. Realy wasn't looking to dress them up, just upgrade.

[Canadiankid]

Sorry I thought you were looking for bling. But you can get stainless braided brake lines if you are interested. And they do look sharp.