PDA

View Full Version : Drilling Rotor?


Bman2009
June 9th, 2009, 12:09 AM
I have mechanical brakes with the carslile caliper. The brakes aren't really the best but they work ok. Once they get hot the stopping distance increases by prolly 25% and the wheels have a tendacy to lock up. I am planning on drilling the rotor, but im not sure if this will be enough. I also thought I could score each pad laterally about .875" Please let me know what you think or throw out some tips. Im not looking forward to tearing the whole rear axle out for a worthless procedure... Thanks in advance.

altrego30
June 11th, 2009, 02:09 PM
They do have vented roters, I use them.I guess you could drill holes, and if you mess it up, buy a vented roter.

bm1
June 15th, 2009, 10:25 AM
How often are you using the brakes to make them hot? Those mechanical calipers are OK for a lawn mower, but I think I'd rather have a hyd brake system. If they're getting hot, look for a problem, like cocked or crooked caliper mount, axle has lateral movement causing the pads to rub the rotor when turning. Drilling a rotor is not going to help much on these things. Now, if you were in a roadrace with speeds of 80-90 mph, then I might think about drilling a rotor. I really don't think you need to. Look elswhere for a problem.

Bman2009
June 22nd, 2009, 10:42 PM
I dont use them any more than normal, and i am just assuming that the problem is too much surface area creating too much friction.. I really am not sure. The caliper is floating so it comphensates for any lateral movement. If i dont keep the brakes adjusted to the point that they are almost touching the rotor, they are innefective until you squeaze hard enough and lock up..

bm1
June 23rd, 2009, 07:25 PM
How big are the pads, or the pucks in the caliper? Most I've seen aren't very big. This could be a problem also. Is the caliper floating, or the rotor floating, and why would you want them to float?

KiwiMike
January 21st, 2010, 10:50 PM
You might have a bent rotor, rotor hub, or axle which will rub on your brake pads continuously causing heat build up.
Try loosening the bolts and nuts on the rotor hub giving the rotor about 1/16 play side to side.
This will let the rotor run true lessening the friction and heat build up.

Prowrench22
April 24th, 2010, 09:37 PM
I have mechanical brakes with the carslile caliper. The brakes aren't really the best but they work ok. Once they get hot the stopping distance increases by prolly 25% and the wheels have a tendacy to lock up. I am planning on drilling the rotor, but im not sure if this will be enough. I also thought I could score each pad laterally about .875" Please let me know what you think or throw out some tips. Im not looking forward to tearing the whole rear axle out for a worthless procedure... Thanks in advance.


Yes scoring the pads for less contact surface will reduce braking power and drilling the rotor will help increase heating faster by less material..........sorta counter productive.

Really I have no clue what your trying to achieve, if the barkes are locking up to much brake pedal pressure is being applied and the fact that they dont stop when cold means pads suck or the rotor is harder then kelseys nuts, a new set of pads.

The lock up is partially when you break you lean forward in the seat and unload the rear end, no weight on the rears.

Guys drilling doesn't cool rotors it' cleans the pads, less material heats faster, more material takes longer to over heat.

The brakes should work fine without taking time to heat up if you have to heat them up something is wrong.

Floating the rotor on loose bolts is a process of self alignment calipers on car do this also

Thats the brakes!:cheers: