Governor Removal How-To

[sniffles]

There have been some questions about governor removal so I put together a few pics for a briggs 6.5hp intek. http://photobucket.com/albums/e363/snifflesthree/?action=view&current=105_0546.jpg
Sorry, I messed up on the pictures so just hit previous instead of next. Take off the gas tank and the side cover around the gas tank. You will see some springs and an arm. Take out everything except for the choke lever. Pretty simple. Next open up the crank side cover. Inside the crank side cover not the actual engine you will see two gears. A black gear and a yellow gear. Take out the yellow gear. I did this by putting the wrench under the gear and putting pressure on the wrench. Next the black gear. This gear is a little bit tougher to remove. Do the same thing with a little more pressure on the wrench. There is an arm under the gas tank that goes through the block. You need to take that out also. Once you do that you will want to tap it which I have not done so I dont have any pictures of it. Now reasemble. Note 1: Picture number two is a camshaft not a governor gear. Note 2: The yellow governer gear has a small washer that needs to be removed. I also did not remove the wire yet that attaches to the carburetor because I've been busy. Hope this helps! Feel free to ask any questions.

[CritterBuddy]

CritterBuddy is a big dummy!! :hammer:

I go out on the internet looking for instructions on how to remove the governor from a B&S Intek and what do I find? A link to this thread! Should have known to look here first.....

The statement in the instructions, "Once you do that you will want to tap it which I have not done so I dont have any pictures of it.", I'm assuming means to thread tap the hole for a plug after you remove the little shaft. Anyone know for sure?

[scooterpimp]

Yes You Must Tap The Hole & Use Screw/Bolt With gasket Or Thread Sealent & Its All Good! Da Pimp!:toilet:

[Dynaride]

If you want to really wake up a Briggs 6.5 Intek without all the hassle of tapping holes and removing gears, just put a zip tie around the governor spring to keep it from stretching.

[moto1fast]

That would work but if you do a lot of High RPM's the gearing inside can come apart and cause some damage! If you want to be safe remove the items like was described by Da pimp! If you want to keep from tapping the shaft hole out and keep it original so you can install it back in ( for some reason) in the future you can just put a plug in it with sealer on it. I made one out of a brass spent 22 cell that worked great on my 6.5 honda clone!:thumb:

[Dynaride]

I will keep that in mind! I just finished my first bar stool and am having a blast on it. I did the zip tie trick, so I will let you know if she comes apart. I probably have 2 hours on it so far and they have all been high rpm most of the time. WHo would have thought that a bar stool with wheels could be such a thrill to ride? A buddy of mine and I are going to make a couple more so that we can race them in his shop. The slick concrete floor is like a drifters paradise!

[moto1fast]

I have done the zip tie and had no problems either but I have heard of a few that the gears came apart and cratered thier engine. So I now just take about 10 minutes and remove them and I do not have to worry about the gears. Just the rod coming through the block! LOL:wave:

[CritterBuddy]

If the yellow gear is the governor, how does it work in relation to the shaft you remove?

Can you remove the two gears but leave the shaft?

I didn't set this motor up but the guy who did hooked the throttle cable up to the shaft arm.

[Frozen Bohemian]

What does the governor limit the RPM to?
So with the governor disabled how many RPM's does the motor spin?

[BuddhaBomb]

Seems that the link of reference pics is no longer available... Does anyone know of any other links concerning the removal of the governor on a Briggs & Stratton Intek 6.5hp engine?

Thanks

[BuddhaBomb]

Since I was unable to find any clear descriptions or pictures on how to remove the governor on my recently acquired B&S Intek 6.5hp, I decided to take the above instructions and have a go at it... This is what came of it. If anyone sees any issues, by all means let me know.

Step #1:

The first order of business was to remove the fuel tank, side housing, and anything that was in the way of getting to the other bolts. It was one of those deals where you have to remove one thing to get to another. In the end, here is where I started.

[BuddhaBomb]

Step #2:

I removed the bolts that were holding on the crankcase cover. There were set studs that align the cover correctly, so a little care was needed to get the cover off. When I flipped the cover over, I saw these two gears... one yellow or creme color and the other was black.

[BuddhaBomb]

Step #3:

The first gear I removed was the creme or yellow gear. There was a little slack in that the gear will slide up the post just enough to get a screwdriver blade underneath. It took "maybe" light to medium pressure and the gear popped off.

[BuddhaBomb]

Step #4:

Now it was time for the black gear. There was a small "keeper" or "D-clip" that was easily removed by putting little pressure against it. Once that came off, the black gear just slid right off.

[BuddhaBomb]

Step #5:

Not sure what this is called, I will call it a "paddle gear". Not the best of pictures, but this shows what the bottom side looks like. This was the next little dealio to get rid of.

Hmmm, maybe I will call it a "paddle rod" instead. I am talking about the silver "thing" at the top of the picture.

[BuddhaBomb]

Step #6:

Alright, this is a little better... Here is what I saw from the top. This is the top of that "paddle gear" or "paddle rod". There was a pressed on "keeper" type washer on the stud. Using a small blade screwdriver I was able to work bot sides until it wiggled up enough that it slid off of the stud.

[BuddhaBomb]

Step #7:

(Coming down the home stretch):thumb:

After that "keeper" washer was off, that "paddle rod" dealio slid out through the bottm. A liitle care was needed in rotating the crank so the rod would clear the gears and slide out. Only small amounts were needed and it dropped right out.

Here is what was left, a pressed-in brass sleeve. I debated on either tapping the brass sleeve or driving it out and tapping the aluminum. Since worst case scenario told me that if the plug failed, I would have oil spurting all over the place and I wanted to keep the plug as small as possible, I opted to tap the brass sleeve. (a 5/16th tap)

Oh and that wire... I got plans for that

[BuddhaBomb]

Step #8:

Since common sense isn't always so common, I placed a small lint free rag inside the engine, under the sleeve to catch any shavings coming from the tapping. I took it VERY SLOW with tapping, I did not want to heat up the brass and have it spin in the housing. That would of not been smooth sailing.

At any rate, I was getting lazy at this point and did not want to drive to get a 5/16th set screw... which would have been sweeeeeet. Instead I had a 5/16th button head bolt lying around... so that won. I ground the bolt down to about 1/2" in length (which was a little less than the amount I tapped) put some thread sealant on the threads and plopped her in. The brass sleeve was "maybe" a 1" to 1 1/8" in length and maybe tapped about 5/8" or so. No reason really, just did not see a need for such a long plug.

[BuddhaBomb]

Step "I am Done For Now":

I noticed that there is a small wire that exits the engine that went up to a contact that gounds out the engine (stopping it) when that handle goes to the turtle.

Brilliant! (I think), I will simply solder a wire on to that and run it up to my handlebars or steering wheel and wire in a "Normally Open" kill switch. That way, I can use the kill switch to stop the engine if I fall off as a result of all this new found power... and I can use it to stop the engine and not have to bend over every time. Hmm, I see a lazy theme here... but you get the idea.

Since I am going to use one of those schnazzy Coyote Gear aluminum tanks I am not worried about that right now. I am still waiting on the "throttle kit" that I bought, but after removing all of this "stuff", I probably could have just made it myself.

Oh, and all that "stuff".... here was the "extra parts" I had. Somehow the wife doesn't understand seeing the UPS man show with a box, go into garage and proceed to dismantle the newly acquired contents of said box, and end up with "extra parts"..... Women:dizzy:

The Briggs and Stratton manual says an 6.5hp Intek with governor = RPM 3600. The only information that I could find said a 6.5hp Intek without governor can rev at RPM 5000. If revved into 5800 RPM territory bad things are bound to happen. At any rate a jump from 3600 to 5000 RPM on the Kart Data program resulted in a 10 - 12 mph gain. Hopefully, all that is true.


...And that is how I spent my last hour:wave:

[mike gilliam]

we raced these motors for years just fill the hole with j b weld works great some even just used silicone with no leaks

[mike gilliam]

we raced these motors for years just fill the hole with j b weld works great some even just used silicone with no leaks

[Wanz]

Any one have any pics of how to install the throttle linkage and return spring after the governor linkages are removed. I am considering removing my whole governor plate assembly, but don't know how well throttle cable will work hooked direct to the carb. will the throttle be touchy and where will the return spring need to be mounted..

[BuddhaBomb]

After I removed the governor and all related parts, I needed to build a small bracket for the throttle and return, as below. The throttle has a decent snap back and can be adjusted if needed.

[Wanz]

do you have a picture of the front side, showing your bracket setup?

[BuddhaBomb]

do you have a picture of the front side, showing your bracket setup?

Wanz, mine is still a "work in progress", but I made the bracket in the above picture and just ran a spring from it to the carb. I am keeping the "throttle rod", shortened and a clevis to switch from the rod to cable. The throttle cable will just go into the clevis and be held by a set screw. I will make a bracket for the cable so no tension is on it. I'm sure there are multiple ways of doing it but this is what I came up with. Also, I made a bracket for the top of the engine and put in a momentary "off" switch to kill the engine, like below.

[Wanz]

hey thanks for the info. I'll have to do something on that order too. Thanks again, keep me posted if you come up with a slick idea, I'm still in the process of removing my gears and etc..