Engines

[WarPaint]

Ok the first engine i had didn't fit and needed alot of work. But it was a freebe. Now i know why. I got this one new for 121.00 I was told it was to replace a honda 6.5

anyone got any input on this engine. I guess i just want to know if i got a good buy.

Dimensions: 12"L x 14.3"W x 13.2"H
HP Rating: 6.4 HP @ 3600 RPM
Max Torque: 9.76 Ft/Lbs @ 2500 RPM
Engine Type: Single Cycle, 4 Stroke, OHV
Displacement: 198 Cu-In
Ignition System: Transistorized Magneto
Crankshaft PTO: 2-7/16" x 3/4 Diameter Tapped 5/16 x 24 UNF
PTO Shaft Rotation: Counterclockwise
Idle Speed: 1400 RPM (+200/-150)
Cooling System: Forced Air
Spark Plug: BP6ES
General Use Engine Oil: SAE 10W-30 API SJ or SL
Engine Oil Capacity: .63Qt
Fuel: 86 Octane or Higher Unleaded
Fuel Tank Capacity: .95 Gal
Fuel Consumption: .51 GPH
Starting: Electric & Recoil Pull Start
Controls: Throttle/Fuel/Choke/On-Off

[docgreen9]

man that's cool ... and a good price for an electric start engine. Looks like some company just copied the Honda's.

[stool-sample]

Steve and I saw those last year at the lawn and garden expo. There a chineese make of a honda! Inexpensive , but havent played with any but I can say they probably will work fine. Glenn

[docgreen9]

what make are those?? I've seen them but can't remember the name..

[WarPaint]

All it has on it is NEXXUS . But it looks just like a honda.

I need to find out how to hook up the 12 volt to it for the starter. it came with no info.

[WarPaint]

OK help . Like i said I don't know anything about motors. SO can anyone give me a idea of how to hook up a 12 volt bat to this bad boy. I hope you may be able to help from the pics. It came with no papers on how to do it. I just need to know where the - and + wire hooks to . Thanks

[Mike Bean]

Hey Warpaint,

I am pretty good with electrical since I have been building cars most of my life. I am not sure exactly what you have by the photos.

Generally, the engine and starter will be the ground (-) or negative of the battery. Now on cars there is a HOT (+) on the solenoid and then there is a trigger terminal when 12V are applied it supplies power to the starter and kicks the starter teeth into the flywheel.

I take it you have a key switch for the start? If so I would think you need to get a ground hooked up top the engine and then hot to the starter solenoid.

Do you have a wiring diagram you can scan in and upload for us?

Mike

[WarPaint]

Thank you .

You gave me more info than the 10 others i have ask this week. I even went to the local lawn mower repair guy and he told me he have never seen this before. And no they didn't send a wiring diagram . It will pull start and runs strong I just wanted the bat start to show off. I will work with the info you gave me and let you know how it works out. You never know. Someone may buy one like this and have the same question. Thank you

[WarPaint]

OK wow was that easy. But I always say "If you know how to do it ,It is easy."

anyway I got it . Thanks . And now to pass it on to anyone that is having the same problem. You hook the pos (+) to the solenoid , and the neg (-) wire to ground . In this case my frame. Does anyone see a problem with this that I don't see.

Thank you .

Oh ! see photo.

[Mike Bean]

Hey Warpaint,

I cannot believe 10 other people could not help you out (I am not doubting what you had said, just surprised). It is simple electrical that any lawnmower shop should have known.

I would recommend hooking the ground to the engine if possible. Preferably the engine mount bolt or something attaching to the engine. Just make a better contact.

Anyways I am glad to hear it is working for you now.

mbean

[WarPaint]

I will do that . I know what you mean . When I went to the local lawn mower shop and told him what i had . He told me that a 6.5 didn't come with a electric start. Till he seen it. And i even took it into work and noone could tell me. But we are just a lot of screen printers. The guy next door works on cars and he didn't know. I think some of them just didn't want to mess with me about it . but hey I should have come here first. Thank you for the info.

[WarPaint]

Ok . I was told that i need to use rubber engine mounts . what and where do you find them? Or better yet is this true?

[Mike Bean]

Why do you need them? I did not use any on mine.

The problem I see with rubber engine mouts is that is may allow minor movement of the engine in which would cause your rear chair to jump off or bind.

My generator has rubber enigne mounts and when I start it the engine has a kick to one side when reving up.

Just get a better bar stool seat and you wont even know the difference.

mbean

[FatDog]

I had thought about using rubber mounts between the 4 engine bolt points and the engine plate,
more as sort of a bragging right then as a necessity for comfort. :D
On the other hand, a rigid mount might give you SLIGHTLY more vibration in these fierce beasts that we build.
I figure that the chain, will have a little play in it anyway (1/2"?) or maybe even a tad bit more then 1/2" and then a chain tensioner bolted to the frame to be really cute. :D
I figure that the chaine tensioner would be even more extravagent then the rubber mounting.

In a fit a extravegence, to rubber mount the engine, which does provide more comfort to your back if you decide to take your BSR crosscountry on old paved roads, I would take small pieces of bushing-rubber and drill the 4 engine mounting bolts thru them. They will absorb a fair amount of that engine vibration. :D:D

Old school BSR racers from the '50's would smile a little bit at the thought of rubber mounting, but when you ride up to some raunchy ol' BSR bar at the end of the trail every nite, your back will thank you.

[WarPaint]

I didn't think anyone used them. I just wanted to make sure i wasn't doing something wrong. It's funny when i ask someone here in my town how to do something they just don't know, Because noone here has ever built a BSR. But when I tell them what i'm doing, Man the "Iwould have done it this way" comes out of all of them. This forum has helped me more that any cart shop around here. When i get it done I plan on putting www.barflyracers.com (http://www.barflyracers.com) on it somewhere.

[FatDog]

Warpaint
I got a buddy in Sand Springs, OK who has drag raced his Vettes for many years now,
and when I bought my engine from TulsaEngineWarehouse i asked him to check them out to make sure they were real before I sent the cash.
The funny thing is, there isn't any Kart shops out here west, they appear to me to be a MidWest sort of thing.
I am treading new ground here and already have talked a buddy into starting up one as well.
We'll hit the local dirt track intermissions

i need me a pit-crew and i'm thinking the receptionist from my shop, ehhhh...the one with the ..... interesting figure.
I'll be bar racer and she could be bar back
I haven't quite figured out that whole angle yet, but believe me, i am thinking it over

[WarPaint]

Ok help ! I'm having trouble hooking my throttle cable to my engine. It has a handle off to the side that is used to throttle itbut it looks like i could hook it to that. Can anyone send me some photos of how you got yours hooked up.

[Mike Bean]

Warpaint,

I know what you're talking about. Here is a photo of my throttle setup.

What I did was take a screw, lock washer and nut and I drilled out the screw at the top near the screw head in the threaded area.

I also drilled out the arm on the engine to match the screw size. Do not get too big of a screw because when you drill out the arm you want it to still have some strength left.

Now here are some tips, go to Lowes or Home Depot and spend the $5.00 on a couple of "Quality" drill bits which are the size of the throttle cable. Don't use the cheap crap you get a Harbor Freight.

Then clamp the screw in a vise and use a variable speed drill and take your time getting the hole started. Also try to be centered as best as possible. Once almost all the way through ease off because the bit can catch the back side hole and the drill will cause the bit to break off inside the screw like I had happen.

And that's about it. The screw can be difficult to get started, just use lite pressure until you get a start. I did the same thing for the brake cable holder on my mechanical brake setup and it worked great.

One more thing, the throttle return spring was very stiff on my engine. I took it off and clamped it in my vise and then pulled on it with a pliers until is stretched enough to where is was easy to operate the throttle.

mbean



WarPaint wrote:
Ok help ! I'm having trouble hooking my throttle cable to my engine. It has a handle off to the side that is used to throttle itbut it looks like i could hook it to that. Can anyone send me some photos of how you got yours hooked up.

[WarPaint]

Great mbean. I will get to work on that tonight. Man that looks good. Mine is a littledifferent but it all works the same.

Thanks

[big block]

can you tell me where the engine is available

[WarPaint]

I got the one i have off e bay. Just look under go cart engines. also try go kart.

[stoolpigon]

War - if you need more info on these motors check out the Honda forum at Bob's 4 cycle. There's been some posts on these imported Honda clones over there.

[Ironfist104]

Here ya go a basic starter wireing diagram.....

594

[RUBICON]

Have you decided on the size and type of battery to mount?...I used a small cycle one at first for size alone...then had to upsize to the next larger cycle battery....works fine for over a year now...and the engine charges it fine....

[WarPaint]

Have you decided on the size and type of battery to mount?...I used a small cycle one at first for size alone...then had to upsize to the next larger cycle battery....works fine for over a year now...and the engine charges it fine....


I was using a lawn battery. and it work great but lost it in the crash.
I plan on making a new battery box and putting it back on. But just can't stay off the darn thing. Maybe when it gets to cold to ride.

thanks for all the help on the battery hookup.

[WarPaint]

I took off the old air filter and made one to stick outside the stool. BUT the choke lever did not stay on the motor. It looks like the old air filter holds it on. So I made a holder out of a scrap steel. I took a 1" x 2 1/4 " and used the extra bolt hole to hold it over the choke lever. But i just couldn't do it plane. So i cut a cross in it. it works and looks good to.
http://tinypic.com/jhphk9.jpghttp://tinypic.com/jhphs2.jpg
http://tinypic.com/jhpi1j.jpg

[BAR-TAB]

ok heres the scoop. I spent a couple of years owning a scooter buisiness. There is a vast majority of clones and knockoffs, Honda,yamaha,and suzuki, {the older retired engine plans of the 70s 80s and early 90s.} the wiring can be difficult to read even for some mechanics, and the manuals are hard even for some of the chinese to read lol. In a nutshell, if you are buying a chinese product,..........................its the luck of the draw. Some fall apart during instalation and some need dynomite to break them.

[sniffles]

They have a very basic wiring diagram at briggs racing. Here is the link: http://www.briggsracing.com/display/router.asp?docid=101374
And then click on performance guide.

[Guy]

ok heres the scoop. I spent a couple of years owning a scooter buisiness. There is a vast majority of clones and knockoffs, Honda,yamaha,and suzuki, {the older retired engine plans of the 70s 80s and early 90s.} the wiring can be difficult to read even for some mechanics, and the manuals are hard even for some of the chinese to read lol. In a nutshell, if you are buying a chinese product,..........................its the luck of the draw. Some fall apart during instalation and some need dynomite to break them.

LOL, I think it's called "Engrish""

http://www.engrish.com/image/engrish/Shift1.jpg

[BAR-TAB]

ezacaree i make good instrushuns