Hydraulic Brake Setup

[Mike Bean]

I had some time to work on a hydraulic brake setup for a Classic Cruiser frame today.

I used all 1/4" x 2" flat to mount the brake caliper and master cylinder and then used some 1/8" x 1" angle to make a bracket for the brake cable that goes to the master cylinder.

I get full lockup at half squeeze on the hand brake lever.

Below are some photos for anyone that has been thinking about going to a hydraulic brake setup.

The hydraulic brake system I used was by MCP for a 1-1/4" axle.

Mike Bean

[jim-iceman]

Mike your Pict. did not come oct..

[Mike Bean]

Mike your Pict. did not come oct..

Jim,

I changed the post to have links to the images. They should be there now.

Mike
:smash:

[docgreen9]

I've found doing the hyd brakes on mine that the remote master cyl and hand brake cable didn't work very well for me. I couldn't get enough leverage from the cable to pull the remote master cyl enough to apply the brake hard.

My solution was to use the caliper and rotor as installed but use an ATV style handlebar mount master. Used a "Y" and a couple flex hoses from a Harley shop. Now the barstool stops ... NOW!!! .... and will give you change. It'll lock the rears up.

Personally my suggestion for other new builders would be buy the caliper and rotor seperate without the master and get a new/used ATV style off ebay or local salvage. It's less work fab'n and less stuff to break.

My $.02

[Sprintcarman]

Can you tell me the distance from the caliper bolts to the center-line of the axle and the size of the brake disk?

[Mike Bean]

Can you tell me the distance from the caliper bolts to the center-line of the axle and the size of the brake disk?

Hey Sprintcar,

The diameter of the brake disc is 7-1/8". I am not sure of the other measurement. If you are trying to determine the placement of the caliper on the disc, what I did was look in from the back of the caliper and position it so the brake disc was all the way to the back edge of the pads. That would give you the most surface area for stopping power.

Hope that help.

[ckoczara]

I had some time to work on a hydraulic brake setup for a Classic Cruiser frame today.

I used all 1/4" x 2" flat to mount the brake caliper and master cylinder and then used some 1/8" x 1" angle to make a bracket for the brake cable that goes to the master cylinder.

I get full lockup at half squeeze on the hand brake lever.

Below are some photos for anyone that has been thinking about going to a hydraulic brake setup.

The hydraulic brake system I used was by MCP for a 1-1/4" axle.

Mike Bean

Hey Mike;

I just bought the same brake set up for my project stool. I was wondering what type of cable did you use for activation? I have Cannondale brake levers, and a bicycle brake cable to use as of now. After looking at it and feeling the force required to activate the master, I think a motor cross cable may be more suitable. What do think, having been here before?

Chris :confused:

AKA;Bitten by the bug

[Race Ratz]

I am not using the plastic tubing, changing out the fittings to 1/8npt / 3an to use the Russell stainless braided hose. What sealant do I use on the fitting to master cylinder at the 1/8 npt joint? I have a solid hiem joint tie rod between the Phantom foot pedal and master cylinder lever. There will be no loss of energy betwen these 2 items.
Thanks, Bill:cheers:

[ckoczara]

I am not using the plastic tubing, changing out the fittings to 1/8npt / 3an to use the Russell stainless braided hose. What sealant do I use on the fitting to master cylinder at the 1/8 npt joint? I have a solid hiem joint tie rod between the Phantom foot pedal and master cylinder lever. There will be no loss of energy betwen these 2 items.
Thanks, Bill:cheers:

Hey Bill;

I used the ARP pipe sealer. I use this on all of my racecar engins as well. Teflon tape may break down from the fluid, this will not. You can get this from Jegs or Summit Racing. Very cheap and a little goes along way.

Good Luck;

Chris

[BuddhaBomb]

Use a paste type thread sealant on all NPT fittings, as ckoczara suggests. You can use Permatex 14 for the fittings... can be bought at most Auto Part suppliers. Do not use any sealant on the AN fittings. AN fittings rely on the 37 degree taper to seal the union. I have seen where people have used blue Locktite on the threads only of an AN fitting. When tightening AN fittings... be sure that they are threaded on correctly, tighten to hand tight, and then a 1/8th turn tighter. Fill and pressurize system, check for leaks, then only tighten in small increments.

The above has never let me down.

[QuadRacer99]

hey mike bean, i just ordered the same hydraulic brake kit that you have, on ebay, and was just wondering what or where abouts you were able to find a throttle cable to go from the master cylinder to your hand brake. also anything else that i need to know to make it a little easier to find one that will work. thanks

quadracer99

[HiGhStAkEs]

I just installed hydraulic brakes on my BSR after having no luck getting a mechanical brake setup working. I had my rotor laser cut out of 1/4inch plate steel on a CNC laser. I went to a motorcycle salvage yard and picked up hand controls off a 96 Kawasaki Ninja. They were clean with a good throttle and master cylinder. The caliper I got off of a 98 Polaris ATV. I found it easier to use front calipers off ATVs rather than motorcycles because they are not as abnormally shaped and easier to fabricate into a BSR. Make sure you watch which side caliper you get so you know which direction you have to mount it on your BSR. The bleed screw must face the ground. If you are going to use equiptment off salvage bikes, especially brake hoses try and find working brakes and dissassemble them yourself so you know that they will work and wont leak. I just got my brakes set up and WOW they really work well! I have no problem locking up the rear end now! Make sure to take note of the machine you get parts from so if you ever need to get replacement pads/parts you know what bike/ATV your parts are from.

[Cerveja]

Make sure you watch which side caliper you get so you know which direction you have to mount it on your BSR. The bleed screw must face the ground.
Are you sure? Whenever I have bleed a hydraulic system on a car or a bike, the Bleed Screw has always faced up to allow the air to escape. Both my sportbikes the Bleed Screw is on top. I can't remember the last time I remember a Bleed screw being the low point of a hydraulic braking system.

[HiGhStAkEs]

I was curious Mike, if you any recommendations for a brake rotor hub. The one I have is seems to be just slightly bent/warped causing my rotor to wobble just slightly. I am concerned that it will wear out my floating caliper because it is constantly moving back and forth. Any recommendations?