View Full Version : Can A Torque-a-vert be adjusted?
sgaylord
August 28th, 2006, 04:16 PM
I am new to this so let me say that up front... I have my BSR built but I don't think I am not getting the same performance you guys are. I have the Pro Street Frame and Deluxe parts kit from Barstool Racer Supply and a Tec 6.5 with ele start. The turing takes some getting use to. It pushes really bad. I guess that is from the solid rearend.
My question has to do with the Troque-a-verter. Is there a way to adjust it? It does not seem to fully engage. I can actually stand in front and hold it back and the belt slips. I can't pull the front tires off the ground either without really puling back on the handlebar. My top speed is about 20MPH. The belt seems like it is really loose too. I see the front pully collapse when the RPM's go up. Does the back pully move or stay stationary?
Thanks,
Steve :cheers:
CritterBuddy
August 29th, 2006, 07:24 AM
The following link is a good place to start in describing and troubleshooting torque converters.
http://www.gokartsupply.com/comet.htm
I can only offer this much help as you didn't describe which torque converter you are using and whether it is new or used. For example, if it is the one-piece type like the TAV 1 or TAV 2 then the only belt adjustment is replacement to the correct length. If it is the 20, 30, etc. series then you can slide your engine back to adjust belt tension between the driver and driven unit.
To test your torque converter, I would suggest you place the front of your BSR against a wall with something soft between the BSR and wall so you don't scratch the frame if it sticks out far enough to touch the wall. Then securely prop both sides of the back end up on some wood or something so the wheels clear the ground by a few inches and doesn't rock. You can now safely run the rpms up and watch the torque converter work. Initially you should see the driver sheeve (the one on your engine crankshaft) close so the belt travels to the outer diameter of the sheeve. When the belt reaches this point, or something close to it, you should then see the driven unit (the other sheeve) open so the belt goes deeper into it. The second sheeve is kind of like an overdrive.
Hope this helps.
sgaylord
August 29th, 2006, 10:13 AM
CritterBuddy,
Thanks for the reply. I have the one piece design. It's a TAV2. It was new when I put it on. It really looks as if the belt is too long. I dont know much about these things, this is the first one I have ever used. I will post some pics tonight.
Thanks
Steve:cheers:
Drako
August 30th, 2006, 03:31 AM
Did u put the belt on backwards? The flat side goes towards the motor & the tapered side goes out. Check to see. This could cause the symptons you describe.
DRAKO:cool_dude:
"Think Beyond the Box"
BAR-TAB
August 31st, 2006, 09:23 PM
also what tooth axle sprocket are you running??? The belt is supposed to be loose because it will stretch out as the rpms increase. Thats how the tav works. "changed gear ratio as you increase rpms"
stevbmi
November 20th, 2006, 07:06 PM
Comet did have a run of TAV2s that had the wrong size belt with them. We had about 50 of them we had to replace the belts on.
stool-sample
November 21st, 2006, 06:00 AM
Take your driver off the shaft. (engine pulley) with the belt on the driven, you can check the belt by pinching the belt together. (between the driver and driven.)There should only be a small gap on your driver. 1/8" or less. If you have any more than that I would say you have the wrong belt. Again check to see if its on wrong. Im sure its not or you would have ended up on your ass when you hit the throttle! lol
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