6.5 hp Honda clone

[b.raven70]

I have a honda clone and wanted to know how you all are hooking up your throttle? Should I remove governor? I want to remove the air cleaner box, where can I get a aftermarket air cleaner? Need tips on building a header also (How long?)? Any other tips anybody may have would be greatly appreciated also. This is going on a pro street cruiser with a tav.

[b.raven70]

Guess Im on my own on this one. Nobody use Honda's or clones around here?

[Snakester]

Hey b.raven70, I used a clone on my last racer. I removed the governor , the exhaust and the air breather. I fabbed up a header pipe exhaust and am working on a breather .I bought a breather that would be used on an automotive valve cover , about 2 1/2 " dia. red and chrome. Hooking up the throttle took some time, had to make all the linkage and used 2 return springs to make sure it would idle down. I used a TAV 2 Comet instead of a clutch, it really is worth the money. Today I bought another Honda Clone 6.5 hp from Harbor Freight for $75.00 at a side walk sale, and another TAV 2 from Northern Tool for my next Racer . I will post some pic's when I can. Snakester :blob_red: :blue_blob: :blob_red:

[moto1fast]

Hello, I made a Air filter Assy. also out of a Valve cover breather. Milled Aluminum with flames and it unscrews and you can clean the foam air filter element or replace it as needed without removing it from the intake! Look at my Dual wheel BSR Pics! Also fabbed a Exhaust out of a Mini pocket bike exhaust. I also have a Honda clone 6.5 Electric Start that I fabbed the linkage and removed govenor. I am also Installing NOS system to it!

[wrench]

i just bought a honda 6.5 clone, its called a vortex, i havent gotten it yet though. did it fit on your barstool without have to remove the gas tanks and exhaust and air cleaner?

[moto1fast]

Hello, Yes it will fit snugly without having to remove anything if it is like my Sterling Honda clone! I did change exhaust and air filter any way.

[wrench]

what gearing did you use on the front and back, and your clutch set up, i am trying to get it so i can easily ride wheelies, but also have a top speed of around 40mph.
Thanks

[moto1fast]

I have a TAV 2 Comet Torque Converter with 12 toothe front sprocket and I am just trying out different back sprockets at this time to get about the same results without hitting my NOS.

[wrench]

k where did you get the TAV 2 kit and what rear sprocket should i use?

[wrench]

i read on the comet website that it engages at 2200rpm. thats really high for a motor that only gets to about 3500rpm.

[CritterBuddy]

Here's a link to a great little freeware utility which will help you to figure out your top speed with different gearing, tire sizes, and even motor rpms if you remove your governor. Normally motors like we run peak out about 3,600 rpms but I believe an ungoverned motor will peak out about 6,000 rpms. Bear in mind that an ungoverned motor will only affect your top speed - I don't think it will help the motor rev faster but I could be wrong.

http://www.gregorybraun.com/KartData.html

A torque-a-verter (TAV1, TAV2, or even separate driver and driven units) are designed to handle various gearing and terrain to give you smoother operation at all speeds instead of the engaged/disengaged condition you get with standard centrifigul clutches. It is also designed to help keep your motor in it's power band better by using the motor rpm which affects it's gear ratios. For example, during operation it's gear ratios start out about 18:1 and end up just over 1:1 at top speed. If you wish your torque-a-verter to engage at a higher rpm like a racing centrifical clutch, you can replace the springs in the driver unit to do this. The way racing clutches keep you in the power band is by adjusting them to engage at higher motor rpms but this gives you jerking starts. A racing clutch is designed to be run flat out like on a race track.

[b.raven70]

I removed the fuel tank, because I plan on making a remote tank out of a mini keg. The exhaust was also removed so I can fabricate a header (Any ideas on length of header for optimal performance?). The air cleaner was also removed. Does anyone have any pictures of air cleaners they built for a clone? I havent got my tav yet so I cant tell for sure but It looks like Im going to have to turn the air cleaner at a 90 to keep it from hitting the lower ring of the barstool.

[Snakester]

b.raven70, The air breather was a tight fit on my last Racer. If you turn the stool so that one leg is at the front and rear you will have more space around the air breather and the exhaust. I am going to build a three leg stool for my next Racer. My TAV2 has 16 teeth/ I used a 40 tooth on the rear , Removed the Gov. and it was clocked at 39MPH. Snakester:lush:

[b.raven70]

Anybody have pictures of how they made their air breather?

[KStoner]

I can try to get pictures tonight.

[kkuenemann]

Here are some pics of my clone's throtle and exhuast header.

I removed the tank and used the mounting boss to feed the cable thru. I drilled it out and used a 3/16" compressoin fitting to hold the cable housing in place. I made the clevis and the bellcrank out of Aluminum on a mill. I used the part of the original linkage plate and pivot and the rod to the carb. I just bent the rod to fit, cut the bracke to clear as you can see in the pictures.

The header is made from using the flange from the original muffler and a piece of 3/4" EMT. I used a EMT Conduit Bender to make the bend, it is about 18" long overall. I you know an electrician, have him bend a piece of emt into a 90 so that you have each leg about 12" long. I cut each end to fit the way I wanted and welded it together. I just need to grind the welds and paint it with a high temp paint such as VHT.:thumb:

I used the stock aircleaner, just removed the top cover....Only untill I find and fab one up for the K&N filter that I have....:laughing:

[b.raven70]

Kkuuenemann
Thanks for posting the pics. The throttle linkage gives me a good idea of how to put it together. Nothing better than seeing how other people did something then putting your ideas with it to build something. The header is exactly what I had been thinking of doing with EMT since its the only pipe I can bend myself. How does the motor run with it? Does it pop alot or is it excessively loud? Thanks again for the pics.

Brian

[kkuenemann]

It is loud, but not any louder than some for four wheelers or harleys around here. It only pops when you let off from a full throttle blast.....

[Snakester]

Hey KKuenemann, I fabbed my throttle linkage pretty much as you did, seems to work okay, I put a heavy return spring on after my first ride . It didn't want to idle down w/ the factory spring! For the exhaust header I used a 90 degree EMT pre bent piece from Lowe's ....@$2.00 and welded it to the exhaust bracket that I cut off the origional exhaust, then added a chrome tip. It is loud....But who cares!!! Snakester:lush:

[minidragbike]

This will also help
www.nr-racing.com (http://www.nr-racing.com)
They have all the Hi-Po parts that work on the clones also. Get the RLV header from APS, it works best! NR-Racing has a bolt on filter adaper, and a linkage kit that will solve any problems you have. The velocity stack is best.:)

Now if you wan 1 extra HP. Buy a set of GX140 springs, and a no#90 jet for your carb from NR.