Torque Converter -vs- Clutchs

[Prowrench22]

What should I use I will have a Yamaha or Robin power but is the torque converter going to shoot me on my butt?

Brakes: are the manual brakes OK or hydrolics?

I just want to shoot around the pits and tow the kart, not looking for big speed.


Thanks Rich Domenick

[stool-sample]

Everyone uses what they can afford. Ive mounted a 5.5 Briggs intec with a cheaper centrifical clutch, and its enough to pull the wheels up and spin the tires. Glenn

[Prowrench22]

I'm just wondering if the torq converter is going to toss me on my butt, not really looking at cost.
I will probley go with a belt drive setup for sure just wonering clutch or torq converter.
Safety for anyone with half a brain that rides it is what I'm after.

[Mike Bean]

Powerench22,

Don't worry about getting tossed off the BSR with a tork-a-verter. I run one with my 6.5HP motor and I love it. I can pop a wheelie with ease, but do not worry about that. Once you learn to control the throttle, you will know what you can and cannot do on your BSR.

The main reason I got the tork-a-verter was for the extra speed.

Mike Bean :blob_red:

[1100kaw]

Hey all, me again, Just curious, i'm running a cheap clutch on my stool.
opperation appears to be ok. but it rattles and jingles all the time, drives me nuts, worse than a header leak!
do the hi dollar clutches do this?, It seems the more expensive clutches are more for race also, higher stalls, and such. Does anyone know of a nice clutch with bearings, and smooth/possibly adjustable/opperation for lowwer stalls on stock engines?
I dont mind paying for quality, if it is really, that much better, and I figure on a Bar stool, not a race Kart, it will be a one time purchase.
DD

[Mike Bean]

1100KAW,

I have never used a clutch, but I can tell you a tork-a-verter is quite as a mouse and smooth as butter.

I have heard and read in these forums about people burning up clutches. I beat the hell out of my tork-a-verter and it keeps going. If I remember correctly the tork-a-verter has 3 fingers that squeeze the pulley together to go. A very simple system compared to a clutch.

Mike

[Woodchuckscustoms.com]

I have used both The Torq. conv. is great for power and speed great for pulling things. But if you want to go fast as hell spend the money on a good racing clutch not one that cost 20.00 im talking about real racing clutches ones that are over 200.00...but well worth the $$$$$$

[altrego30]

Go with the Torque-a Verter.
I found a guy on ebay unloading 5 at $110 each, last year, And I bought 3 of them, and the other 2 were gone less than an hour latrer. I never boughta racing clutch, but I have bought the el-cheap-o clutches, had the same rattleing issue. I perfer the Torque-a-verter. Check ebay, might find a good price there. But always check out the shipping charges, the price maybe low, but the make it up in shipping.

[voodoo_stepchild]

Hey all, me again, Just curious, i'm running a cheap clutch on my stool.
opperation appears to be ok. but it rattles and jingles all the time, drives me nuts, worse than a header leak!
do the hi dollar clutches do this?, It seems the more expensive clutches are more for race also, higher stalls, and such. Does anyone know of a nice clutch with bearings, and smooth/possibly adjustable/opperation for lowwer stalls on stock engines?
I dont mind paying for quality, if it is really, that much better, and I figure on a Bar stool, not a race Kart, it will be a one time purchase.
DD

Hey Kaw,
The racing clutches do not rattle and jingle as you mentioned in the above and they are well worth the money. The cheap clutches have a bronze bushing that wears rather rapidly and causes your headaches. The racing clutches most of the drums have needle bearings instead are much more smoother. Not all racing clutches are high stall and to be honest there are a lot of clutches made strictly for running on the stock engines. The horstman MDC-400s is an excellent 6 spring clutch for a stock engine, the horstman reaper clutch is a good clutch and is adjustable for any stall you wish. Both of these clutches are bearing type but cost around 250.00 each. If you want a clutch still heavy duty and reliable but dont want to shell out the cash, the Tomar stellar clutch is about 200.00 and is adjustable from 3600 to 4200 rpm on the stall. The Noram ge series is a needle clutch but not adjustable per say without shoes and springs. Its the cheapest at about 60.00 and the shoes are about 10.00 each and springs are about 1.75 each. But it wont rattle and clang.
Hope this info helps ya

Voodoo:cheers:

[Guy]

Is there any way to "tune" a Tav2 torque a verter?
I'd like to raise the shift point to keep the power wheelie up a bit longer.
Would a stiffer spring on the secondary do this?
Does anyone make different springs or weights for Tav2?

[BAR-TAB]

if you are going to be pulling things on a regular basis. go with the tav. the clutches will burn up much easier under load