View Full Version : Puller
Woodchuckscustoms.com
January 6th, 2007, 08:43 PM
I have started a pulling sled for Barstool Racers or what ever else we find to hook up to. It's 12' Long x 30" across at the rails. The weight box is 29"L x 18"Wx12"D. I need to get some wheels for the weight box and a couple of pulleys, some cable for the drive system and a chain for the hook up to the scid plate. The Tires and rims are from an old qwad and right now dry weight is 156lbs.:cheers:
moto1fast
January 6th, 2007, 10:03 PM
Hello, It looks good but I believe the Angle of the rails is a little to much and the wheels to far back. It has to balance out with about 30 pounds of wieght on the front skid plate. If you put a lot of wieght in sled box it will be hard to get it started. I built my first one like that and had a hard time with getting it going. If you have a rise of about 14" in 12 feet and the wieght box right behind rear axle it will work out better. You can adjust the skid wieght by adding wieght to the front of sled as you add wieght to the box if you have the box behind the axle but if not you cant. You would have to take wieght off the front if you added a lot of wieght to the box if it starts out in front of the axle! The steep incline also makes it hard to pull because of the up hill residence it will have. But it looks great and the braces look good.:thumb:
Woodchuckscustoms.com
January 7th, 2007, 11:27 AM
ya I thought it looked a bit high in the front, I am going to cut it down to 24" ,that should be the right angle. I used some of the measurments from a accual puller sled:cheers:
Thunderbolt51
January 11th, 2007, 01:02 PM
moto1fast has good advice especially about the box starting behind the axle, you can make a boxstop/rest that is adjustable for return position. your boxrail pitch is way too much, you'll have the box slamming into the return stops without a box brake, half of that will do. you should also run a large round tube on back edge of the shoe so it doesn't dig in on the return trips, also shoe/pan upright should have hinge (fifth wheel style) to follow surface contours and ease loading/unloading. also include a means of hanging weights over/on the shoe and a box drive release when the box tops out. pullers need to be able to get some momentum (running start) before ya drop the hammer on 'em. As an experienced puller, I'm having trouble picturing how you run these, with short wheelbases they'll be hard to control and stay on the seat, pullers will need short wheelie bars so that they don't interfere with the towchain. what hitch height is planned for this sled and pullers (axle height ??), is added weight to puller for balance and traction allowed (weight booms ??), kill switches ?? you need to address safety/liability issues here. a self propelled sled with steering brakes will make operation more enjoyable.
Woodchuckscustoms.com
January 11th, 2007, 02:19 PM
Ya Thunder There are some modifications that need to be done. I plan on working on it this week end again.:cheers:
Thunder about the BSR Puller Machine, the normal langth seems to be about 36" how long do ya thing I should make the puller stool? I was thinking about 48"
Thunderbolt51
January 11th, 2007, 02:44 PM
Woodie, yeh, the longer length will definately help but you'll propably want to accomodate the more common short wheelbase bsr's, how many will build a special purpose bsr puller ?? weight balance of both the sled AND the puller is of paramount importance especially with such a short puller. Chain and clutch shielding is also VERY important what with such a load being imposed on those parts. recommend use of helmets for inevitable tipovers too. Safety First !! I don't have any idea how well a centrifugal clutch will hold up either. It'd be an interesting learning experience for sure.
moto1fast
January 12th, 2007, 12:30 AM
Thunderbolt is correct and agree with him on all points mentioned!! I would recommend a Hortsman, reaper clutch with heavy springs and do away with the belt system of the TAV due to the Power being transfered to rear wheels at High RPM's and low geared sprocket for pulling the Belt will slip!! I have seen this before when a puller decided to try a belt drive system instead of a chain drive!! Did not work well and burned up several belts at pulls! Made a nice smoke out performance though! LOL:rofl: If you like the smell of burning rubber its great!!lol:laughing: Also the Cheap old centrifical clutches will not Hold up!! Think about it the centrifical clutch engages when the RPM's of the engines get to a higher rpm. What happens when you load the engine up and it is pulled down in RPM's. The clutch becomes weaker because the centrifical force is reduced with less rpms and slips and burns up!! Thats my thoughts on it based on past experience and a little fraction of knowledge or force and resisdence!!
Woodchuckscustoms.com
January 12th, 2007, 01:50 PM
Great Idea's:thumb: I was going to use a 10 or 15hp clone motor for the BSR Puller or an Yamaha 700cc motor with the yammi sled clutch system.I plan on doing some modifications to the sled this saterday :cheers:
moto1fast
January 12th, 2007, 05:02 PM
If you use a 700cc yamaha engine you better think about bigger rear tires and a longer frame! A lot of toque to control in a light wieght frame!! Wheelie bars will be a MUST!!LOL:laughing: You will need to put a extended front counter wieght box up front also!!
Woodchuckscustoms.com
January 13th, 2007, 12:58 AM
I may also look for a bike motor or the whole bike and use the motor and chain set up and what ever else off the bike I can re-cycle:thumb:
Woodchuckscustoms.com
January 13th, 2007, 09:23 PM
Well I got the Rear box stop welded inplace today. I also welded the pulley up front for the cable drive. The front has been lowered to 24", I think this incline will work out ok. The weight Box needs some modifications on the wheels. I mounted wheels today but I didn't like the way it tracked up and down the rails. I plan on fabricating some new wheel brackets to fix this.:cheers:
moto1fast
January 13th, 2007, 10:25 PM
Woodchuck if you take some 1 1/2" or 2" Angle iron and weld it on rails with point of V up and get some V grooved wheels it works best . It will track striaght and if dirt or anything gets on rails it will fall off the rails and help the wieght box to travel smooth! Also you will need to put some tabs underneath the wieght box to keep it from jumping off rails. On the front of sled you need to put a safety stop up there to keep the wieght box from flying off the front during a sudden stop or a fast pulling BSR that tops out the wieght box and keeps going!! Hope that helps some!!
Woodchuckscustoms.com
January 14th, 2007, 12:35 PM
Ya I'm going to play:cheers: around with the weight box this week and see what I can come up with.Were can I get v groove wheels?
moto1fast
January 14th, 2007, 02:43 PM
I found some on line and will look and see where i got them from and let you know. I have 4 right now I will see how much they cost me and let you know what I will take for them also!!:cheers:
moto1fast
January 14th, 2007, 04:17 PM
Woodchuck here is a link where you can gets some V-grooved wheels. http://www.hamiltoncaster.com/Wheels/VGroovedFlangedWheels/VGroovedWheels/tabid/144/Default.aspx :thumb:
vBulletin v3.5.2, Copyright ©2000-2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.